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A 

MANUAL 



HAND LATHE: 



COMPRISING 



CONCISE DIRECTIONS 



WORKING METALS OF ALL KINDS, IVORY, BONE AND PRECIOUS 

WOODS; DYEING, COLORING, AND TRENCH POLISHING; 

INLAYING BY VENEERS, AND VARIOUS METHODS 

PRACTICED TO PRODUCE ELABORATE WORK 

WITH DISPATCH, AND AT SMALL EXPENSE. 



BY EGBERT P. WATSON, 

LATE OF "the scientific AMERICAN," AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN PRACTICE OF 
AMERICAN MACHINISTS AND ENGINEERS." 



rLLUSTKATED BT SEVENTT-EIGHT ENeKAStlNGS. 

.,:?r^u:-Fc^,;: 



PHILADELPHIA: ] , 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD, INDUSTRIALPIJBLISpRr 

406 WALNUT STREET. 

LONDON: 

SAMPSON LOW, SON & MARSTON, 

Crown Buildings, 188 Fleet St. 

1869. 




Etitered according to Act oi Congress, in the year 1869, by 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD, 

In the Clerk's Oflfice of the District Court of the United Statesj in and for 

the Eastern District of Pennsylvania! 



TO MY DEAR SON", 

EGBERT PERLET WATSON, 

I DEDICATE 

THIS LITTLE BOOK, 

IN THE 

HOPE THAT HE MAY BE A GOOD MAN, 

AND A GOOD MECHANIC. 



PREFACE. 



I DID not write this little book with the 
intention of apologizing to the prospective 
reader, so soon as I had done so, but with 
the honest, I hope not egotistical, feeling 
that I had something to say that was not 
generally known. We live to learn and to 
impart what we know to others, and I have 
taken this method of giving ray experience 
in a pastime tliat is elevating, artistic in 
every sense of the word, and a wholesome 
relief from the cares of business. 

In regard to the work itself, I can show 
samples of every thing of any importance 
described or given in it. I have not made 
all of the patterns given in the back part, for 
that is mere routine, but in gross, and in 
most details, the book is the result of expe- 
rience, and will be found reliable as far as 

5 



6 PREFACE. 

it goes. That it does not cover every pos- 
sible change and use to which the lathe can 
be put, I am well aware. 

Something must be left for the workman 
to find out himself. Neither have I given 
any recipes for varnishes, for those cannot 
be made by inexperienced persons. More- 
over, they can be had so cheaply and uni- 
versally, that it is mere folly for any ama- 
teur to make them. 

Saluting all persons who love the art of 
which this little volume is descriptive, 
I am their sincere friend, 

EGBERT P. WATSON. 

New York, April 15, 1869. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. PAGE 

The Foot Lathe 13 

CHAPTER II. 
Tools 22 

CHAPTER III. 

So RAPERS, ETC 30 

Chasing and Screw Cutting 33 

CHAPTER IV. 
Chasers, etc 35 

CHAPTER V. 
Chucking 42 

CHAPTER VI. 
Metal Spinning 51 

CHAPTER YII. 
Ornamental Cutting 59 

To make a pair op Solitaire Sleeve Buttons.... 59 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Centres 65 

CHAPTER IX. 
Fancy Turning 71 

7 



8 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER X. PAGE 

Ornamental Woods 77 

Varieties 77 

Snake Wood 78 

Tulip Wood 79 

g-ranadilla ...<,..«.... 80 

Tamarind » .......* 80 

Cam Wood 81 

Box Wood 81 

Laurel Eoot 82 

White Holly 82 

Ebony 82 

Olive Wood 83 

Sandal Wood • 8B 

Rose Wood 84 

Curled Maple 84 

Birds' Eye Maple 84 

Treatment « 85 

CHAPTER XL 

Wood Turning 87 

CHAPTER XIL 

Tools for Wood Turninu 90 

CHAPTER XIIL 

Tool Tempering, etc 92 

CHAPTER XIY. 

Artistic Wood Turning 96 

CHAPTER XY. 

Stamp Inlaying 102 

CHAPTER XVL 

Designs in Mosaic 106 



CONTENTS. 9 

CHAPTER XVII. PAGE 

Finishing the Outside 110 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Inlaying Continued 114 

Gluing in Veneers 115 

Ivory 116 

Polishing 118 

Dyeing Ivory 118 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Ornamental Designs for Inlaying 121 

CHAPTER XX. 

General Summary 125 

Lacquers 126 

Soldering 127 

Varnishing and Polishing 129 

Brushes 131 

Pearl 131 

Miscellaneous Tools 131 

Curving Veneers 132 

Cutting Miscellaneous Materials 133 

Index 135 



MANUAL 
OF THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE FOOT LATHE. 



There are two distinct kinds of work done in 
foot lathes — the useful and the merely ornamental. 
Both afford enjoyment and profit to those who 
practise them. The mechanic who earns his 
living by working ten hours a day in a workshop, 
does not care to go home and pursue the same 
calling in the evening ; but he can institute an 
agreeable change in his life, beautify his dwelling, 
and cultivate his taste, by the use of the lathe, and 
thus obtain ornaments that would cost large sums 
if purchased at the stores; or he may, indeed, 
make the lathe a source of revenue, and sell the 
product of his skill and ingenuity at high prices 
to those who admire, but have not the ability to 
construct. 

To many mechanics, even, the lathe is merely a 
machine for turning cylinders or disks, or exe- 
2 13 



14 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

cuting beads, ogees, scrolls, or curves of various 
radii, so that, after all, the work is pretty much 
alike, and ceases to be attractive. This is quite a 
mistaken view. There are no such goods in mar- 
ket as those made on lathes, and peculiar tools 
used in connection with them — by lathes with 
traversing mandrels, with geometric chucks, with 
dome chucks, and compound slide rests. There 
are lathes that, while one could chase up a five- 
eight bolt in them as well as on the simple pulley 
and treadle machine, are also capable of executing 
all sorts of beautiful things — vases with bases 
nearly square, or exactly square, with round tops 
and hexagonal bodies, with gracefully-curved an- 
gular sides and bases, fluted vertically; boxes 
with curious patterns, resembling basket work ; 
in fact, any combination of straight and curved 
lines, cut in the sides, it is possible for an inge- 
nious man to invent. Strictly speaking, these are 
not lathes, for in order to do the things before 
mentioned it is necessary to use after attachments 
in connection with them, so that the combination 
of them produces the results spoken of. There is, 
absolutely, an unlimited field for the genius of 
workmen to exert itself in designing patterns and 
executing work of an ornamental character. 

All ornamental work resolves itself into move- 
ments of three kinds — angular, circular and 



THE FOOT LATHE. 15 

straight. From the combination of these with 
each other, the times where they merge and 
emerge, where a movement of one kind changes 
into any other, where an ellipse becomes part of a 
circle, where circles are generated across the cir- 
cumferences of other circles, where these patterns 
are drawn over and upon each other without de- 
stroying the character of either — we say, by such 
movements, and many others which it would be 
confusing to follow, the most beautiful forms are 
made. 

Or, if the taste of the workman runs upon me- 
chanical instead of artistic things, there are steam 
engines to be made, steam boilers to be spun up, 
of small size ; in fact, any piece or machine that 
can be thought of. 

It is almost unnecessary to specify the innu- 
merable kinds of work that can be done in a hand 
lathe, but the amateur who delights in metal turn- 
ing may make trinkets of all kinds for his friends, 
that shall vie in beauty with the best efforts of 
the jeweler and goldsmith. This, of course, is de- 
pendent on the material used, the taste of the 
workman, and his originality of conception. Pins 
for ladies' wear can be made of boxwood and 
ebony, glued together in sections, of all designs, 
and afterwards turned in beads and mouldings, or 
otherwise ornamented in a chuck, as will be 



16 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 

shown hereafter. Sleeve buttons can be made of 
ebony and silver, ivory and silver, pearl and gold, 
or any combination that is desired. Chess and 
checker men also afford a chance to display skill. 
And, besides these, special work of any nature is 
within the capacity of the machine. 

There is no family in this country that would 
not find it economy to have a foot lathe in the 
house, where the members have mechanical tastes 
— not necessarily the male members, for ladies use 
foot lathes, in Europe, with the greatest dexterity. 
Some of the most beautiful work ever made, was 
by Miss Holtzapfel, a relative of the celebrated 
mechanist of the same name. If there are shovels 
to be mended, the lathe will drill the holes and 
turn the rivets. If the handle of the saucepan is 
loose, it will do the same. If scissors or knives 
want grinding, there is the lathe ; if the castors on 
the sofa break down, there is the lathe ; if skates 
need repairs, either of grinding or of any other 
kind, there is the lathe. In short, it ought to be 
as much a part of domestic economy as the sew- 
ing machine, for it takes the odd stitches in the 
mechanical department that save money. 

Let not the inexperienced reader, who hears of 
a lathe for the first time, be frightened at this ar- 
ray of terms, or diverted from the use of it by 
the recital. In its simple form, as shown in Fig. 1, 



THE FOOT LATHE. 
Fig. 1. 



17 




it is readily understood, and, after a little prac- 
tice, easily managed by any one, and, after the first 
few weeks, the amateur will realize the fruits of 
his application. 



2* 



18 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

At first, it had not even a continuous rotary 
motion, but the spindle was driven by a belt 
worked by a spring pole or its equivalent. The 
belt was rolled round the spindle, and the pole 
allowed to spring up ; the spindle then revolved 
the lofigth of the belt, or rope, for belts were not 
thought of, and the operation was repeated, the 
work being done only when the force of the spring 
pole revolved the spindle and the job the right 
way. 

Foot lathes had, prior to the introduction of 
the engine lathe, been used on very heavy work. 
It is but a few years, comparatively speaking — 
not twenty — since cast-iron shafts, six, eight, and 
ten inches in diameter, were turned in such lathes. 
For all that we know to the contrary, many jobs, 
far exceeding this in size, have been thus exe- 
cuted. 

In some shops, there are still standing heavy 
oaken shears, made of timber twenty inches deep, 
and four or six inches wide, faced with boiler 
iron, and in the racks above there are long- 
shanked tools, with which the men of old were 
wont to do the work. 

These lathes are never used now, except for 
drilling holes, or for apprentiiaes to practice on, 
but they serve to show what machinists had to do 
in olden times, when there were no vise benches 



THE FOOT LATHE. 19 

Fig. 2. 




to sit on and watch the chips curling off the tool, 
as men do now. 

Hand lathes are not in great favor in large ma- 
chine shops. They are not used, or should not be, 
for any purpose except drilling, and then they are 
no longer hand lathes, but horizontal drilling ma- 
chines. There is no simple work to be done on a 
hand lathe that could not be performed to better 
advantage and more cheaply on a machine con- 
structed for the purpose. 

Some large machine shops keep a hand lathe 
going continually, cutting off stud bolts, facing 
and rounding up nuts, and similar work. This 
does not seem profitable. A machine to do this 
work would do more, of a better quality, than 
hand labor could. 

The foot lathe — the terms hand and foot lathe 
are synonymous — is generally used, at the present 
time, by small machinists, manufacturers of gas 
fixtures, amateurs, etc. ; men who do not work a 



20 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

lathe constantly, but are called off to braze or 
solder, or, perhaps, to fit some detail with a file. 
For these uses the foot lathe is one of the cheap- 
est of tools ; for the same person that does the work 
furnishes the power also, so that a man working 
on a foot, or hand lathe, as it is often called, 
ought to have first-class wages. Moreover, a first- 
rate foot lathe turner is always a good mechanic, 
for it takes no small degree of dexterity to per- 
form the several jobs with ease, and dispatch, and 
certainty. To always get hold of the right tool, 
to use the same properly, so that it will last a 
reasonable time without being ground or tem- 
pered, to rough-turn hollow places with a square 
edge, to chase a true thread to the right size every 
time, without making a drunken one, or a slant- 
ing one, to make a true thread inside of an oil 
cup or a box — all these several tasks require good 
judgment, dexterity, and a steady hand. Of 
course, where a slide-rest is used, the case is dif- 
ferent. "We allude, specially, to a cutting tool 
managed by the hand. 

To do all these things, however, it is necessary 
to have tools, and good ones, or none. It is an 
old saying, that a bad workman quarrels with his 
tools, but a good workman has a right to quarrel 
with bad tools, if he is furnished with them, 
through chance or design. It is impossible to ex- 



THE FOOT LATHE. 21 

cute good work with a dull tool, one badly 
shaped, or unsuited to the purpose, and, therefore, 
it is important to set out right at the beginning. 

There is no tool more efficient in the hands of a 
good^workman, than the diamond point. Fig. 2, 
here shown. For roughing off a piece of metal, 
for squaring up the end, for facing a piece held in 
the chuck, for running out a curve, or rounding 
up a globe, it is equally well adapted. It may be 
truly called the turner's friend. 



22 MANUAI^ OF THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER IL 

TOOLS. 

Any one who has watched a novice at work on 
a lathe, must have remarked the difficulty he has in 
controlling the tool and keeping up the motion ot 
the treadle at the same time. The two operations 
are difficult to " get the hang of," to use a homely 
phrase ; but once conquered, the work can proceed. 
The natural tendency is to slack up or stop the 
motion of the treadle while the tool is engaged, 
and the tool is, therefore, at one time under the 
work, at another time above it, at another jumping 
rankly in, until, finally, the piece goes whirling out 
of the center or the chuck, and the operator flushes 
all over at his awkwardness. 

This, of course, is remedied by practice ; aud as 
this work is written mainly for the information of 
beginners and amateurs, we hope that experts and 
those who know all about hand lathes, will excuse 
allusion to such simple things as holding the tool 
properly, and kindred matters. 

The lathe must be of such a height as the work- 
man finds convenient, so that he is not obliged to 



TOOLS, 23 

stoop much, and, at tlie same time, low enough to 
allow the weight of the body to be thrown on the 
tool when hard work is to be done. The speed of 
the lathe ought to be very high on the smallest 
cone, and there should be three speeds, at least, 
for different work. The object is to regulate the 
velocity of the work in the lathe, and keep the 
motion of the treadle uniform, as near as may be, 
at all times. It distresses a workman greatly, 
when chasing a fine thread on a small diameter, if 
he has to tread fast to get up the proper speed, as 
he does when there are only two speeds. On the 
contrary, for larger jobs, it is dijSicult to keep up 
a rotary motion if the foot moves slowly, as it 
must in order not to burn the tool by a high ve- 
locity on some kinds of work. Foot lathes, in 
general, are not geared, although some are, and 
ought to have wider ranges of speed than they do. 
Where one class of work is done, however, it 
makes little difference, but for general turning, 
the speeds should vary. 

Another difficulty experienced by beginners is 
in holding the tool still — rigidly so. They allow 
it to " bob " back and forth against the work, if it 
runs untrue, so that it is impossible to make a job. 
The tool must be held hard down, as if it grew to 
the rest, and never moved, nor receded, until the 
cut besun is finished. 



24 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



The "rest" should be of soft, wrought iron, 
since that material holds a tool with more tenaci- 
ty ; imposing less strain on the arms of the opera- 
tor. It should be dressed off smooth as often as 
it gets badly worn, or cut by indentations. Cast 
iron is not good, and steel is not so good as 
wrought iron. A special rest should be kept for 
chasing threads with, since the least obstacle is 
enough, when running up a fine thread, to divert 
the chaser and spoil the job, by making a drunken 
thread. If we now suppose the lathe to be in 
good order, the centers true and well-turned to a 
gauge, the rod (if that is the job) between them and 
properly " dogged," the centers oiled, and the 
rest at the right height, we shall be all ready to 
start. The rest should be high enough to bring 
the point of the tool a little above the center. 

To rough ofi" the outside, and make it run true, 
is the first step, and the tool must, therefore, be 
Fig. 3. 




held as in Fig. 3, or so that the point and part of 
the edge alone engage with the work. This will 



TOOLS. 25 

take oflf a thin, spiral cut, without springing the 
shaft or making it untrue. The whole surface of 
the shaft must be thus run over, beginning at the 
right hand and shifting the tool as fast as one part 
is turned. The tool should not be moved rigidly 
in a straight line toward the belt, but by holding 
it hard down on the rest, so that the bottom edge 
bears as m Fig. 2, and rocking the tool on that 
angle, so that the point describes a curve, as in 
Fig. 4. 



Fig. 4, the work will be turned evenly and true. 

We must remark, in passing, that the person 
who reads these directions, and then undertakes to 
turn by them, will find that reading how to do a 
thing, and doing it, are two different matters. 

It looks very nice to see a skater darting over 
the ice at his ease, but try it once, and, if you 
never knew before, you will understand what ex- 
perience means. Trying to teach a person to be a 
turner, in a book, is analogous. One can only in- 
dicate the general method, and leave experience to 
do the rest. 
3 



26 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



After tlie whole surface has been run over, the 
same tool may be used on the flat side for reda- 
cing the work to one diameter throughout the 



Fig. 5. 




length. The reader must not assume that there 
is no other tool than a diamond point j he will 
find many others adverted to, as we proceed. 

It is most important that the ends of a rod or 
shaft should be squared up first, before the body 

Fig. 6. 




is turned, for the removal of some slight inequal- 
ity subsequently may cause the whole shaft to run 
out of truth. The center must be drilled with a 



TOOLS, 



27 



Fig. 7. small drill, and slightly counter- 

sunk. When the end is squared 
up, the center must be run back 
a little, so that the tool point 
may project over the drilled, 
hole, and thus make it all true 
about the center, as in Fig. 5. 
This will make the work push 
over to one side of the center, 
but that is of no consequence. 
Let it run as it will ; so long; as 
it does not come out of the cen- 
ters there need be no apprehen- 
sion. 

Fig. 6, is another kind of 
roughing tool, to do heavier 
work with. 

There are two kinds of tools 
used in foot lathes, called 
straight and heel tools. Fig. 7 
is a heel tool. It is so called 
from the heel which is forged on 
the lower end. One form of the 
straight tool has already been 
shown. The heel tool is used on heavy work, 
and the object of it is apparent, namely, to hold 
on the rest, and so impose but little labor on the 
workman to retain it in place, or prevent it from 



28 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



receding. It is generally forged from half incli 
or five eighth steel. The steel is held in a handle 
twenty inches long, grooved on top to fit the steel, 
and furnished with a handle at right angles. This 
handle has a square eye in the top that the tool 
passes through. A nut at the end of it screws up 
the eye and binds the tool fast in the groove, so 
that it cannot slip. 

It is given complete in Fig. 7. The lower han- 

Fig. 8. 




die enables the workman to have great power 
over the edge, and to direct it from or to the 



TOOLS. 29 

work without clanger of catching. The tool is 
•used by resting the end on the shoulder, as in Fig. 
8, and turning the lowest handle. Since the heel 
holds the tool from slipping, there is no occasion 
to bear against it. In fact, there is no occasion, at 
any time, to force the tool from the workman, but 
it must be turned sideways, back and forth. A 
piece, properly centered, may be cut in any way 
without destroying its truth. 



3* 



30 



MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER III. 



SCEAPERS, ETC. 

To suit different kinds of work, as previously 
stated, various tools are needed, but the reader 
must not expect to see them all illustrated in this 
book. The workman will learn what tools he 
needs, and make them for himself, which will be 
of more advantage to him than engravings could 
be. The tools here shown, will be found very 
useful in different places. 
Fig. 9. Fig. 9 is the end of a thin-edged, flat 
scraper, and is chiefly to be used on 
brass work. It may be of any length 
and size, but for small lathes, and light 
work, it is cheaper and handier to make 
it of thin sheet steel, one eighth or one 
tenth of an inch thick, and to form the 
reverse end into a round nose, or half-circle 
scraper. 

It often happens that fillets or hollows occur, as 
in finishing ornamental brass work, in connection 
with flat surfaces. By having such a tool as this, 
the necessity of laying one tool down and picking 



i|||i 



SCRAPERS, ETC. 



31 



up another, is- obviated, for the two are combined 
in one. For iron work, it is customary to use a 
heavier and thicker tool for finishing. As in Fig. 
Fig. 10. 10, the front edge is 

slightly raised or con- 
cave, to make it sharp 
and hold a cut well. All 
turning tools for finish- 
ing iron are made thick- 
er than those for brass, 
and should have lips, or curved cutting edges. 
Such tools cannot be used for brass, as they are 
too sharp ; the edges jump into the metal and 
spoil the work. 

A tool for scraping brass work of some kinds is 
made as shown in Figs. 11 and 12. 

Fig. 11. 





Fig. 13. 




There is no occasion to make the ends at dif- 
ferent angles, except the convenience, before 
stated, of having four cutting edges on one piece, 
for any angle can be easily given by the position 



32 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

of the hand or the direction of the rest. These 
tools, here alluded to, are only to be used when the 
job has been all turned true and the scale removed ; 
thej scrape, merely, they do not cut. 

Such tools sometimes save a few steps at a critical 
period; that is, when the tool is well set and in place, 
so that the work is done better and more expe- 
ditiously. Apart from this consideration, there 
is the chance of cutting or injuring the hands, by 
the proximity of sharp edges. Under the control 
of an expert, however, there is little danger from 
this cause, as inspection will show. Skilful men 
that have worked a lifetime at their trade, have 
few marks or scars on their hands, as a general 
thing. 

When these scrapers are used on cast iron, or 
indeed, on brass of a peculiar composition, they 
sometimes " chatter," as it is called, and leave the 
work full of deep, unsightly marks, like those on 
the edge of coins. The cause of chattering is the 
rapid vibration of the tool, so that it springs away 
from, and against the work, with great rapidity, 
leaving traces of its edge on the work. Chatter- 
ing may be prevented, by putting a piece of sole 
leather on the rest, between it and the tool. 

The tools with long handles are chiefly intended 
for heavy work, or that which requires both 
hands to the cut, but there are smaller tools than 



SCRAPERS, ETC. 



33 



these, used bj amateurs, wherein the common 
tile handle, or one like it, only a little longer, is 
employed instead. 

CHASIJSTG AND SCREW CUTTING. 
In an engine, or power lathe, all screws are cut 
by trains of gears, as mechanics well know, but 
in the hand lathe, which was the first machine, 
screws, both male and female, must be made by 
chasers or hubs, both inside and outside. The 
chaser itself must be made first, however, and 
that is done by a simple tool called " a hub." 
Fig. 13. 




The chaser is first forged in blank, for an out- 
Fig. 14. Fiff. 15. 




side chaser, as in Fig. 14, and as in Fig. 15 for an 



34 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE, 



inside tool. It is then filed up, and held against 
a hub, shown in Fig., 13, running in the lathe. 
This rapidly cuts away the chaser blank, and 
forms the teeth in it perfectly. The lines across 
it are spiral grooves, cut completely round from 
one side to the other, so that the hub cuts the 
blank like any other tool. Fig. 16 represents 
the chaser. 

Fiff. 16. 




CHASERS, ETC. .35 



CHAPTEE IV. 

CHASERS, ETC, 

It is not always an easy task to chase a true 
thread on a piece of work, and even " the boldest 
holds his breath for a time," if he has a nice piece 
of work all done but the thread, and that in a 
critical part. It is so easy to make a drunken 
thread, or one in which the spirals are not true, 
but diverge or waver in their path around the 
shaft, that many are made. That they are more 
common than true threads, is well known to me- 
chanics. To start a thread true is quite easy with 
an inside chaser ; for, strange as it may seem, it is 
seldom that a drunken thread is made on inside 
work ; only have the bore itself true, and the 
chaser will run in properly. The case is different 
when a bolt or shaft is to be cut. With fine 
threads, the slightest obstruction on the rest will 
cause the chaser to catch and stop slightly. No 
matter how slight the stoppage, it is certain to 
damage the thread. The injury is more percepti- 
ble on fine threads than on coarse, for, in the 
former, if the threads do not fit (as they will not 



36 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

if they are drunken, one crossing the other, when 
both parts are put together), the drunken thread 
will not come fair with the other. In coarse 
threads, however, it will not be so apparent, for, 
by making the drunken thread smaller, it wdll 
have play and accommodate itself to its place. This 
is not workmanship, it is " make-shift." 

To chase a true thread the rest must be smooth 
and free from burrs or depressions. Nice work- 
men keep a special rest, with a hard, polished 
steel edge, expressly for this purpose. 

If the chasers themselves are smoothly finished 
at the bottom, on an emery wheel, they are all 
the better. With these precautions^ and others 
noted below, success is certain. When a thread 
is to be started, take a fine diamond-pointed tool, 
and hold it on the end of the shaft to be chased. 
Set the lathe going, and give the tool a quick 
twist with the wrist, so that a spiral will be traced 
on the work, like Fig. 17^ 

Fig. 17. 




Some part of this will correspond with the 
pitch of the thread to be cut, and there is less 
liability of making it drunken. By a little prac- 



CHASERS, ETC. 



37 



tice, one is able to hit the pitch of the chaser ex- 
actly in making a start. 

" There is no trouble, after you once know 
how." We have chased quantities of small 
screws, with forty-eight threads to the inch, and 
not a sixteenth of one inch in diameter. If the 
chaser once hesitates on such screws, they are 
spoiled. For heavy threads^seven and eight to 
the inch, which is about as hard work as any one 
wants to do, — it is the custom of some turners to 
use a tool with only two teeth, and some nse only 
a sharp-edged cutter, like Fig. 18, to deepen the 

Fiff. 18. 




thread, the chaser being used afterward, to recti- 
fy the job. There is danger with this tool, unless 
it is used by an expert, of digging out the thread, 
'SO that the last end of it will be worse than the 
ifirst. 

Another tool, used in chasing heavy threads, is 

•a doctor. This consists in having a fac-simile of 

the thread to be cut on the back of the chaser, 

and in applying a short set screw behind, so that, 

4 



38 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



as the iron is cut awaj, the chaser may be fol- 
lowed up behind. Fig. 19 is the doctor, but the 
follower opposite the chaser is too narrow, and 
should be made nearly half a circle to avoid slip- 
ping ; with this exception it is all right. 

These tools, and the screws made by them, are 
all inferior to those made by lathes with tra- 
versing mandrels ; that is, a mandrel which slides 
in and out of the head stock, as in a Holtzapflel 
lathe. 

This lathe has a series of hubs, unlike the one 
shown previously, slipped over the back end of the 

Fiff. 19. 




lathe spindle (furthest from the workman) and a 
fixed nut on the head-stock, which, being put in 



CHASERS, ETC. 39 

communication with the hub on the mandrel, 
drives the same in and out, according to the direc- 
tion the cone-pulleys are turned. Of course, with 
such an attachment as this, there is no danger of 
making drunken threads, for the hubs which 
start the threads, are cut with a train of gears in 
an engine lathe, so that it is impossible for tliem 
to be incorrect. Moreover, a square thread, or a 
V-shaped thread, can be made with them, which 
is not the case witli common chasers. 

In lathes that have traversing mandrels to cut 
screws, the tool itself remains stationary, but as 
this is obviously a disadvantage in many kinds of 
work, it is far better to have the tool advance and 
the mandrel revolve as usual. By this plan much 
time is saved, a greater range of work is possible 
with the same gear, and a piece that is chucked, 
or one that is between the centers, can be cut with 
equal facilit}''. 

Any common lathe can be rigged to do this by 
putting a shell on the back end of the mandrel, 
between the pulley and the set screw, and slipping 
the hub over the shell, with a feather, to keep it 
from turning. To take a thread from this hub, 
a round bar must be set parallel with, the shears, 
in easy- working guides. The bar must have an 
arm at one end, to reacli over to the hub, said arm 
to be fitted witli a piece of hard wood, to match 



40 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 

tbe thread on the hub. The other end of the bar 
has the cuttiug tool in it ; of coarse, at right an- 
gles, so as to run in to the work, and bear on the 
tool rest. The tool is held in an arm on the bar 
by a set screw, so that it can be lengthened or 
shortened. 

By this arrangement, a true thread can be 
rapidly generated on any rod, hollow cylinder, or 
other kind of work — the pitch depending on the 
pitch of the hub. 

It is necessary to have as many different hubs, 
varying in pitch, as there are different kinds of 
work to be done, and, although the thread on the 
hub is only an inch or half an inch long, perhaps, 
a screw of any length may be cut on a rod, by 
simply shifting the cutter on the rest. This same 
bar is also useful for turning, as with a slide rest, 
for, by sliding it along gradually, it acts, in a 
measure, like a fixed tool in a slide rest. 

Fig. 30. From these hints the 

amateur who takes a lathe 
in hand for the first time 
or is, at best, a neophyte, 
may learn much to his 
advantage. Persons of a 
mechanical turn only need 
a hint, when the mind springs to the conclusion 
with surprising rapidity. 




CHASERS, ETC. 41 

The little tool, shown in Fig. 20, is verj handy 
in many instances, particularly for running under 
the necks of screws when the thread is cut up to 
the head. By so making them, the head comes 
fair down upon its bed, and holds much better. 

4* 



42 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER V. 

CHUCKING. 

Chucking work in the lathe is one of the most 
interesting branches, for here there are no centers 
in the way, to plague the workman, and the tool 
has a fair sweep at all parts. Every one who uses a 
lathe, should get a scroll chuck, Fig. 21, of Cush- 
Fiff. 21. 




man's make, (A. Cushman, Hartford, Connecticut,) 
that is, a chuck where the jaws move up together 
toward the center, so that any round piece will be 
held perfectly true. This is a great convenience, 



CHUCKING. 



43 



for whether we have a ring to bore out, or a 
wheel to turn off, it is equally handy, and is far 
better than the independent jaw chuck, which has 
to be set up by mea- Fig 

surement, and repeat- 
ed trials before it is 
right. To those who 
cannot afford to pur- 
chase a scroll chuck, 
a wooden one can be 
made to answer eve- 
ry purpose. Wooden 
chucks should be made 
of some hard, fine-grained wood, such as maple or 
mahogany, so that they will hold well whatever 
is driven into them. 

Fiff. 23. Fiff. 24. 





If we have a small cylinder head to turn, for 
instance, the back head, which has no hole in it 
to put a mandrel through, as the front one has, 



44 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



the wooden chuck will come in play. To make 
one, tlje turner takes a square block of the proper 

Fig. 25. 




thickness, say one inch, and saws the corners off, 
so that it is eight-sided. It is then ready to screw 
on the face plate of the lathe. This is quickly 
done by having small screw holes in the plate for 
this purpose, as shown in Fig. 1, page 17. 

Fig. 26. The block is then all ready 

to work on, and the face must 
' be turned off true, and a recess 

cut out in it to receive the head. 

This is the head, Fig. 26. 

On the back side, there is a 

projection to fit the cylinder of 
the engine. This must be turned first, and the 
flange faced off true: after that the head must be 
pryed out, (by making a little recess in the chuck, 




CHUCKING. 



45 



alongside of it,) reversed, and put in the chuck again, 
the finished side in, so as to polish it on the out- 
side. Fig. 27. It must be driven up tight against 



Fiff. 27. 




the face of the chuck, otherwise the flange will be 
thicker on one side than the other. In finishing, 
it will be found better to commence near the cen- 
ter, and work out toward the largest diameter, for 
it is necessary to get under the scale, or sand, left 
on in casting, first, before the work can be turned 
true, and this is easiest done by beginning at the 
middle, where the speed is low. The scale is 
fused sand melted on the metal in the act of cast- 
ing. The best tool to do this with is the diamond- 
point, for it can be employed universally on 
straight or hollow surfaces, is easily ground, and 
always works well. After it, comes the scraper, 
previously shown. It these chatter, a piece of 
leather must be put between them and the rest. 
It is also well to put a stout iron rod, or piece of 



46 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

hard wood, between the back center of the lathe 
and the face of the plate ; this keeps everything 
steady, as shown below, so that a beautiful luster 
will be given by the tool alone. 

After the plate or head is firmly scraped, it 
must be polished with flour emery and oil. The 
emery first used must be No. 1, which is about 
like Indian meal ; if the work is brass, however, 
this will not be needed. This must be plentifully 
supplied with oil, so that it is like cream, and the 
workman, taking a soft pine stick, with the end 
pounded into a brush, so that it will hold emery, 
holds it hard up against the face of the head. If 
it has been properly scraped, a few revolutions 
will produce a fine-grained finish, but if it is badly 
done, the corners will be full of scratches and 
chatters. It takes time and experience to make a 
good finisher, and patience also, for men who are 
good turners, and can make excellent fits, are 
sometimes botches at polishing. 

After emery of the finest possible description 
has been used, a little rouge powder should be 
put on a piece of buckskin and applied to the 
work. This will make a polish equal to gold on 
brass, and like silver on iron. Instead of these 
methods many persons burnish their work. The 
burnisher is sometimes made of steel, of blood- 
stone, and of agate. Steel is the material general- 



CHUCKIXG. 47 

]y employed. It is polished as bright as can be 
on a buff wheel, and must be preserved so, other- 
wise it is useless to attempt doing anything with 
it. Pumice stone is very good for polishing with, 
or rather for finishing the surface before polishing. 
Other substances will be mentioned hereafter. 
Steel and iron are best polished with a sharp tool 
and water. To turn steel with a handsome sur- 
face, the tool must be sharpened on an oil stone, 
and the speed high, then spit on the work and 
take light cuts, and you will have a nice job. To 
make a very brilliant polish on steel, it is neces- 
sary to use emery and oil, plenty of oil and not 
much emery, but this makes such a nasty mess on 
the lathe, that few good turners will do it. A file 
should not be used in the lathe if possible ; filing 
a job makes it uneven, and spoils the looks of it. 
It is difficult to avoid scratches, and the expert 
can generally tell the difference between work 
that has been turned true, and that which has been 
filed, and, in nearly all cases, it is quicker to turn 
the work to fit or to finish at once. 

In polishing round work, such as rods or shafts, 
it is much cleaner, and more expeditious, to make 
a pair of clamps like Fig. 28, and put the emery 
and oil on leather pads between them. The clamps 
consist of two straight pieces of soft or hard wood, 
lined with leather, though some use sheet lead. 



48 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

The leather catches the polishing material and 
holds it, and, at the same time, keeps it continually 
applied to the shaft. The clamps are slipped over 
the same, and the ends held in the hand. This 
utensil also gives a fine finish to the. work, making 
it smooth and even. It must be carried regularly 
alono- from end to end, sometimes fast and some- 
times slow, so as to cross the lines, or avoid mak- 
ing a twist in the polish like a screw thread, 
which would otherwise be given. A very beau- 
tiful and brilliant luster can be given to a shaft of 

Fig. 28. 




iron or steel, after it is nicely finished, by hold- 
ing a sheet of fine sand paper ^ covered with chalk, 
on it. The glaze that this gives, makes the work 
glisten like silver, but it also takes off all the 
grease, so that the shaft is very sensitive to 
moisture, and is quickly rusted. 

This discussion about polishing has led us 
away from the consideration of chucking, which 
we shall enlarge a little more upon. 




CHUCKING. 49 

The chuck is a very necessary and even indis- 
pensable auxiliary when chasing. Threads can- 
not be caught in the jaws of a scroll chuck, be- 
cause, if set tight enough to hold the work, the 
threads are jammed so that they will not run in 
the part they were fitted to. If a piece, having a 
thread cut on it, like Fig. 29, is to be turned out- 
side, it is very easy to chase the j^jo. 29, 
cap first and then the cup it fits, 
so that the cap can be screwed 
into it and turned off where it 
belongs ; it will then be true, 
and is easy to mill on the edge. 

It must always be borne in 
mind that the chaser must be sharp. If it is not, 
drunken threads will be the rule, not the excep- 
tion. 

The chuck shown in Fig. 30, will be found 
very useful for holding metallic disks, small 
box covers, or anything that requires merely a 
slight clasp; it is also useful for holding round 
plugs, pencils of wood, or penholders, to drill in 
the ends. It can be made eccentric with the 
mandrel of the lathe, if desired, so as to turn a 
piece on one side, or drill in a similar manner in 
the end of a plug. It is merely a piece of box- 
wood bored out, bored with holes, which are 
sawed down into slots, so as to form a series of 
5 



oO 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE, 



jaws, wliicli are sprung in by sliding the ring 
Fig. SO, 




down on them. They are so easily mad^ that Sk 
great many can be provided. 



METAL SPINNING. 5L 



CHAPTER VL 

METAL SPINNING. 

Spinning sheet metal into various forms is 
another kind of work which can be done in the 
foot lathe, and it is here that the amateur can 
show his taste and dexterity. 

The process consists in forming a blank, like 
this engraving, into an ornamen- Fig. 31. 

tal base for a lamp, or an oil cup ; 
in fact, any thing whatsoever. 
All that is requisite is to have a 
fac simile, in wood, of the shape 
you wish to make. This is bolt- 
ed or otherwise made fast to the 
face plate, and the blank is then set up against it^ 
and held as the cylinder head, shown in Fig. 26, 
is , that is, with a rod leading from the back cen- 
ter of the lathe to the work. 

A tool like Fig. 32 is then used to press the 
metal into all the recesses or curves of the pat- 
tern. The speed must be high, and the metal 
quite soft and moistened with a little soap-suds or 
oil, so that it will not be scratched by the tool. 




52 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



To spin metal requires some dexterity, but it is 
easilj'' acquired after a little practice. The rest 
must be furnished with holes, like Fig. 33, and a 
Fig. 32. Fig. 33. 





pin, so that the tool can be brought up against it 
like a lever. 

Still -another kind of metal spinning can be 
done in the lathe. This relates to making circu- 
lar shapes, or cylindrical, more properly — such as 
napkin rings, the tops of steam pipes, or similar 
Fig. 34. 




things. To do this, a mandrel is requisite. The 
mandrel must be of steel, and turned to the de- 
sired pattern — like Fig. 34, for instance, 

A ferrule is then made and soldered tos^ether 




METAL SPINNING. 53 

with lapped edges, so that there will be no seam. 
The mandrel must be as much smaller than the 
size of the finished work as will allow it to come 
off freely, for it will be apparent that if the work 
was spun up on the mandrel, it could never be 
taken off'.. The ferrule, when put on them, will 
stand eccentric to the mandrel, as Fig. 35. 

in this figure — that is, when the 
tool bears on it. In other re- 
spects the process is just the 
same as spinning on the face 
plate. Tripoli, chalk, whiting, 
rotten -stone, and similar sub- 
stances are used to give the fine polish on such 
work. 

We know of no prettier or more expeditions 
process of making a small steam boiler for a toy 
engine, than by spinning it upon the lathe. The 
boiler will be very strong, have large fire surface, 
and be without joints, having only one at the bot- 
tom, where it is easily kept tight. Fig. 36 is the 
boiler. 

The metal must be thin (twenty gauge), the 
sheet brass sold in the shops will answer, as it is 
already annealed, and the corrugations must not 
be too deep on the sides, or the work will not 
come off" the mould. The center of the fire-box, 
A, must be left fiat, so that the flue will have a 
5* 



54 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



bearing on it. For a small engine, 1-inch bore, 
and 2-iuch stroke, a boiler of the dimensions 
given here is ample. The flue must be brazed or 
soldered at A, and the bottom must be riveted at 
B, for every two inches ; this is not necessary, 
however. There are only three pieces in this 
boiler — the shell, the fire-box, and the flue, and 
the water must not be carried more than three- 
fourths of an inch over the crown of the furnace. 
We shall now again revert to cutting tools. 

Fig. se. 




Probably many of our readers, who nse hand 
lathes not furnished with slide rests, have wished 
for that indispensable appendage where boring is 
to be done. For ordinary turning, we do not ap- 
preciate a slide rest on a hand lathe so much as 



METAL SPINNING. 



55 



many do that we know, but for boring out valves, 
cocks, or, in fact, anything, a scroll chuck and a 
good slide rest are invaluable. 

Some persons are always " meaning " to do a 
thing, yet never do it. Sometimes, for the want 
of facilities, at others for the lack of an idea. If 
the latter be of any value, we can furnish one or 
two on this subject that may be useful. 

One way to, bore out holes parallel, without a 
slide rest, is to do it with the spindle of the back 
head. With a tool of peculiar construction, holes 
varying in size, can be bored beautifully in this 
way. We present a view of such a tool in Fig. 
Fiar. 37. 




37. It is merely a cross, formed on the end of a 
center fitting the back spindle, the same as the 
lathe center does. The arms of the cross are 
made stout and thick, so as to admit of a sqnare 
hole being cut in them. The hole is made bv 



56 



MAXUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



drilling in and driving in a square drift afterwards 
to take off the corners. The shanks of the tools 
are well fitted to these holes in the arms, so that 
a slight pressure of the screws in the sides of the 
arm will hold them steady. When used, the tool 
is put in the back spindle, and the cutters set to 
the size required, or less, if there is much to take 
out, and run through the work in an obvious man- 
ner. Any range of size can be had up to the di- 
ameter of the cross. It is not well to run the 
cutters out too far, however, as they will jump and 
chatter, or spring, and make bad work. The tool 

Fig. 38. 




is so easily made that one can afford to have three 
or foar, for different jobs. 

Another plan, but not so good, is to make a 
common center and disk, like Fig, 38, 



METAL SPINNING. 



57 



Here the cutters liave a slot in them, through 
which a bolt passes and screws into the disk ; a 
small piece of wood put at the bottom of the tool, 
between it and the cutter, prevents it from slack- 
ing off so as to diminish the cut. These tools will 
be found useful, and will do good work if proper- 
ly handled. This latter tool is better for wood, 
but will answer for any metal by varying the 
cuttter. 

To make a slide rest, in the common way, is a 
costly and tedious job. For all purposes of boring, 
a good one may be made as shown in the following 
engraving, Fig. 39. 

Fig. 39, 




This is simply a casting fitted with a screw and 
spindle, as shown. The spindle has a tool let in 
the front end and held there by a set screw, and 
there is a wheel at the back end to run the spin- 
dle in and out. The casting has a leg to it which 



58 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

enables it to fit the common post the rest for the 
hand tool fits. There is also a key to prevent the 
spindle from turning round. By this arrange- 
ment it is easy to bore, not only parallel holes of 
any size, but tapering ones, which is often a 
great convenience. By a simple change of tool, 
it can also face off' any casting, and can easily be 
made to cut a thread, of a given pitch, by any in- 
genious workman. Not only this, but it can also 
be made without planing ; or other work most 
amateurs have no facilities for. It is within the 
range of ordinary lathe work, and will be found 
indispensable. The T-head may be of cast iron, 
but the spindle should be steel, with a brass nut 
let in the back end for the screw to work in. 



ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 59 



CHAPTEE VII. 

ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 

I SHALL now give some examples of turning dif- 
ferent things which are useful and interesting to 
work. These are only hints, and I make no claim 
to discovery, or to anything specially novel or 
ingenious. It would be very foolish to do that, 
for what seems remarkably " cute " to the de- 
signer of any particular thing, is often shown to 
be slow and unmechanical, compared to other 
ways by other men. I hope, therefore, that the 
expert will bear in mind the fact that, while he 
may know better ways to do the same thing, be- 
ginners are glad to receive instruction first, and 
improve upon it, so much as they are able, after. 

To MAKE A PAIR OF SOLITAIRE SLEEVE BUTTONS. 
—Solitaire buttons are those which have so lately 
come in fashion ; that is, a single stud with two 
eyes on the back for the button-holes of the 
wristband. It is easier to make one stud on the 
back of the button, and easier to fasten it to the 
shirt, as that is the kind I shall describe. 

Go to any dealer in box-wood, and procure 



60 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

waste stuff, which he will sell at a small price. 
Take a piece an inch square, put it in the chuck, 
and turn it round on one end as far as you can, 
then reverse it, and turn the other end ; this will 
make a round plug. Take a ten-cent piece, and 

rig. 40. Fig. 41. 





chuck it, either in a wooden or scroll chuck. Cut 
out the center, so that you have a silver ring. It 
will be necessary to have two rings, one for each 
button. Put the box-wood in the lathe and turn 
the end as in Fig. 41. On the shoulder you are to 
shrink the silver ring just made, Fig. 40. To 
Fig. 43. fasten the ring properly, you 
have only to leave the center 
part of the box-wood a little 
larger than the silver ring — say 
the thickness of a sheet of paper 
— heat the ring slightly on a 
stove or over a spirit lamp, and 
clap it on to its place. When it is cool, if proper- 
ly done, no power can remove it without destroy- 
ing the button. When the ring is in place, it 




ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 



61 



only remains to turn it off as ornamentally as the 
workman desires. The edge may be milled, and 



Fig. 43. 




the face chased or left smooth. The center of the 
button, which is of wood, may be drilled in, and 



62 



MANUAL OF TPIE HAND LATHE. 



a square ebony plag put in, which will give it a 
unique appearance, as shown in Fig. 42. In like 
manner ivory buttons may be turned and breast- 
pins spun up, either in gold or silver. Brass 
breastpins may be ornately turned, and afterwards 
electro-plated for a trifle. They will thus be 
cheaply made, and the ingenious turner can ploase 
his lady friends by presenting them with speci- 
mens of his dexterity and taste. 

At the commencement of this book, I alluded 
to lathes with traversing mandrels, and to varieties 
of work done by tools not generally employed — 
that is, those which are not used by the hand, but 
in connection with the lathe, and driven by belt- 
ing from a counter shaft over head. I give an 
illustration of such a tool, in one form, in Fig. 43, 
It may be screwed in the tool post of the slide 
Fig. 44. ■ rest, or otherwise at- 

tached to the lathe, 
and the belt from 
the counter shaft 
carried over the 
small pulley. The 
driving pulley over 
head should be very large, so as to give a great 
velocity to the cutter, at least fifteen hundred 
revolutions per minute. The use of this tool is to 
make ornamental designs — circular carving, it 







ORNAMENTAL CUTTING. 63 

might be called — on all kinds of turned work, as, 
for instance, in Fig. 44, where a small box for 
pins or needles is shown. This box is made bj 
putting a piece of hard, fine-grained wood in the 
chuck, boring the hole and cutting the thread. It 
is then removed, driven on a round mandrel held 
in the chuck, turned off round outside, and then 
prepared for the pattern as follows : — The design 
settled upon, the index plate must be brought into 
use, and the points inserted in such holes as will 
bring the pattern out right, or all the spaces equal 
— just as the teeth of gears are cut. The tool 
shown in Fig. 43, may be any desired shape. In 
the example of work. Fig. 44, it is m-ade half 
round, and the pattern is called " bamboo," from 
a resemblance to wickerwork. The pattern is 
made to break joint, as mechanics say, that is, it 
alternates, so that the commencement of one part 
meets in the middle of the other. After one 
course is made all the way round, the tool is 
shifted on to another course, and the index 
changed as above mentioned, until the whole has 
been gone over. This produces a beautiful effect. 
It is easy to see that a change of pattern is pro- 
duced at will, by altering the kind of tool and 
the index. As, for instance, in Fig. 45, where 
the pattern is entirely straight. When the de- 
sign is to be cut on such work, it is extremely 
convenient to have a pair of centers to set on the 



6-i MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

lathe, across the bed ; then the fljing tool is not 
needed, nor the index on the lathe pulleys either, 
that on the centers being used instead. When 
this box is held between the centers so as not to 
mar it, the handle may be turned and the work 
run along under the cutter, with great facility- 
The grooves shown in the box are first drilled at 
each end with a common drill, just to the corner 
of the drill, so that a neat and handsome finish is 
given ; a Y-shaped cutter is then put in a mandrel 

Fig. 45. 




between the centers of the lathe, and the pulleys 
set going, so that when the work is run under 
the tool, the slot or groove will be formed. The 
circlet, at the top of the box, is made by a crescent 
drill ground very thin and made sharp — a drill 
like a fish's tail, only formed on a half circle. 

Of course, these methods of doing this kind of work 
can, as I have said before, be varied infinitely, and 
are only cited as applicable to a common foot lathe. 



CENTERS. 65 



CHAPTER YIII. 

CENTERS. 

An indispensable article on a foot lathe, where 
any fancy work is to be done, is the centers — of 
which I have before spoken — shown in Fig. 46. 
These consist of a common set of heads, with 
spindles fitted to them. One spindle has an index 
plate and spring, and the other has a common 
center. These heads set on a slide that is moved 
back and forth over a rest, screwed to the lathe 
bed as usual. It is easy to see that, with this, we 
can do some very fine cabinet work. Suppose we 
have a round vase turned up handsomely, and 
wish to flute the base or make it a series of curves 
all round ; to do this, we have only to put it in 
the centers, set the index so as to come out even, 
as before explained, and go ahead. 

The kind of cutter to be used is a sort of gouge, 
set in a cast-iron head, something as a plane iron 
is set in its stock. That is, fitted tight to a groove 
and held by a set screw. Two of these cutters 
should be used, at equal distances apart, and the 
cutter head should be keyed on a short shaft, set 
6* 



6Q 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



between the main centers of the lathe. The 
Fig. 46. 




whole should be accurately balanced, or else the 
work will be full of chatters or ridges. Since 
centrifugal force increases as the square of the 



CENTERS. 



67 



velocity, any thing that runs a little out of truth, 
will be very much exaggerated as the speed in- 
creases. By using cutters of different shapes, 
beautiful effects can be produced ; as, for instance, 
suppose we take a common round-nose cutter, set 
the index so as to divide the circle of the job we 
are to work on in twenty-four parts, and execute 

Fig. 47. 




that part of the design, then take a tool forming 
an ogee, and work out the spaces intervening, we 
shall find that the article, when completed, will 
have a beautiful appearance, and that, instead of 
being round, the bottom will be octagonal, which 
will present a pleasing contrast to the rest. 

The centers can be set at any angle with the 
cutter shaft and a pineapple pattern can be made 



68 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

on straight surfaces, by executing one part at one 
angle, then reversing the rest that carries the 
centers, and finish the remainder, one part of the 
pattern crossing the other, 

I present here views of a novel ornament which 
exhibits great mechanical ingenuity and manual 
dexterity, but is otherwise of no value. It con- 
sists, in one form, of a globe with a series of rings 
or globes inside, and a six-armed spur projecting 
through holes — all cut out of one solid piece. Fig. 
47 

Fig. 48. 




Fig. 48 shows how the points are turned. After 
the internal rings are cut out with a quadrant tool 
like Fig. 49, and the spur also severed, by cutting 
in the ends o^ the holes (not boring them out 



CENTERS. 



69 



solid), tb. globe is put in a shell chuck, with 

three set screws in it, as shown. The set screws 

go through the holes in the globe, and the cross 

Fiff. 49 




pieces, in between the spurs, serve to steady the 
job. Any number of points may be turned in 
the globe. Fig. 50 shows a polygon with many 

Fiff. 50. 




spurs turned inside. At first sight it would ap- 
pear that the tool, severing the rings, would cut 
off the points also, but it will be seen that this is 
not the case, for the holes being bored so as to 



70 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

leave a core standing (which afterward serves to 
make the points of the spur), the severing tool 
falls into the holes and goes no further, and each 
division serves as a guide for the tool in the next 
hole, so that the globe is made the same size, 
without jags. The quadrant tool, shown before, 
must be followed round the shell in the act of 
cutting it out, so that it will make the same round, 
and the globe must be shifted in the chuck, to 
reach all the holes. It is no easy task to make 
this little affair, for all it looks so simple. 



FANCY TURNING. 



71 



CHAPTER IX. 

FANCY TUENING. 

Fig. 51 is another, a little more ornate and of a 

different pattern. The process is essentially the 

same, except that there are no spurs and a solid 

disk is left inside. This disk is turned out of a 

Fig. 51. 




ball, left inside the exterior shell. One side of it 
is squared up before the ball is cut free from the 
globe, and the job is then reversed and the other 
side squared. The ball is then cut free, and the 



72 



MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 



loose disk is held fast between a flat-ended driver 
in the live spindle, and a loose, flat-ended button 
on the back center. The diameter is then decided 
through the hole which is toward the reader. 
A little tool, which is very convenient for mak- 

Fig. 52. 




ing small screws, is here shown in Fig 52, rather 
out of place, but it was overlooked before. In 
construction it explains itself. Holes of different 
sizes are made in a steel rod, and the end filed into 
shape, as seen. It has been found difficult by 
some to make these cutters work, but that was 
because they were not properly made. The 
trouble lies in drilling the hole. When the drill 
starts at first, the hole is larger on the outside, so 
that the screw blank, when cut, gets tighter as it 
goes in, and twists it off. 

The remedy is, to drill the hole in some dis- 
tance and then turn off the outside end, so that it 
gets where the bore is the same size. This refers 



FANCY TURNING. 73 

only to small bolts, a sixteenth of an inch in dia- 
meter ; where they are large, the trouble men- 
tioned is not experienced. 

It is convenient to have two sizes in the tool so 
that the heaviest part of the work can be done by 
one cutter, the tool reversed by turning it over in 
the fork of the jaws, and finishing the blank with 
the last cutter. A watchmaker's fine saw is to be 
used to sever the screw from the rod. The tool 
itself is to fit in the spindle of the tail stock, and 
the screw wire is held by a drill chuck. 

In the matter of ornamental work, there are 
other details and plans in vogue among expe- 
rienced turners, which can only be alluded to, not 
discussed at length, for the reason that the styles 
are so numerous that an elaborate work might be 
made of them alone, with great profit. The scroll 
chuck or geometrical chuck, as it is sometimes 
called, is a complicated piece of mechanism, too 
costly for general use, and too limited in its ap- 
plication, to mechanics in general, to be of much 
utility. It does such work as may be seen on 
bank bills. The chuck plate, on which the work 
is fixed, is connected, by a train of gearing on its 
back, with a fixed gear about the spindle on the 
head stock, so that when the relation, these gears 
bear to one another is altered, the motion of the 
work on the chuck is accelerated or retarded, or 
7 



74 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



is made to assume certain positions. An elliptic 
chuck is quite another thing, the work done by 
it is shown in Fig. 53, which consists, chiefly, of 
ornamental designs disposed in a certain order. 
In fact, the changes that can be made are infinite. 
Fig. 53. Mandrels — arbors, as 

many call them — are very 
useful tools. Mandrels 
are made of wood and 
steel — usually steel, and 
never of wood, unless for 
some special reason. As, 
for instance, when a 
large brass ring has to be 
turned. For this use a 
wooden mandrel is cheaper and more quickly 
made than a steel one. Besides, it is quite as 
good. Wooden mandrels should have iron cen- 
ter plates let in them, so that they will run true ; 
if the center was made in the wood itself, it would 
be liable to run out. Take a piece of sheet iron, 
one eighth of an inch thick and one inch square, 
hammer the corners thin, then turn them over at 
right angles with the plate. This gives four 
sharp comers, so that, when driven in the end of 
a block, it will not slip ; three small screws will 
hold the plate to the mandrel so that it cannot get 
loose. The center must then be countersunk, as 




FANCY TURNING. 75 

any other is. Such a mandrel, made of hard 
wood, hickory for instance, will last a long time. 

Fibrous wood such as white oak, makes a good 
mandrel, for the reason that work, driven on it, 
compresses the fibers instead of scraping them, so 
that the size of the mandrel is unchanged, 

Steel mandrels should be turned two in one, or 
largest in the middle, for small work, each end 
being a different size. Each end should be tho- 
roughly centered with a drill, and countersunk, 
and a flat place filed so that the dog will hold ; 
iiot a scratch with a tool should ever be made in 
one, though few persons will take the pains to 
avoid doing this. 

It is unnecessary to tell the mechanic he must 
have a rack for his tools, but we may tell the be- 
ginner so, and he will find it a great convenience. 

Now-a-days, the twist drills, made and sold in 
all the tool stores, are so uniformly superior to 
any thing that can be made by hand, or by indi- 
viduals, and are, moreover, so cheap, that it is 
foolish to make drills. Those who have never 
used them, should not fail to order sets. They 
run all sizes, from a needle to an inch. 

There are not a few turners who spoil work 
simply from heedlessness. Not because they do 
not know any better, but because they are averse 
to taking a little extra pains. If a mandrel runs 



76 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

out of truth a very little, sooner than alter it, or 
make a new one, they will try to " make it do.' 
The result is easily seen when work is to be put 
together. Moreover, many persons use little cau- 
tion in setting their work in the lathe. Instead 
of always putting it in the same place, driving it 
from the same side of the face plate, it is entered 
at hap-hazard. It is not good to get into the habit 
of doing work in this way, for it soon leads to 
recklessness. 

Some are too lazy to go and grind their tools, 
when they know it should be done, and continue 
to use them to the ultimate damage of the work. 
It is easy for the practiced eye to see these appa- 
rently small things, for they constitute a great part 
of the difference between a good workman and a 
bad one. 



ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 77 



CHAPTER X. 

ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 

In the matter of wood working, the amateur 
has a field as wide and attractive as the most en- 
thusiastic could wish. Of course, under this head 
only those that are ornamental are considered, 
leaving the plainer and rougher materials for do- 
mestic purposes. 

VARIETIES. 

Most amateurs ransack the stores of dealers in 
foreign woods, for rich and rare varieties, leaving 
our own native woods for others, of deeper hue 
and harder grain. Yet it would be difficult to 
find more beautifully veined wood than chestnut, 
butternut, some varieties of ash, the root of the 
black walnut, California rosewood, and oak ; all 
of which are indigenous. 

In foreign woods there are innumerable varie- 
ties, but as comparatively few of them are to be 
had, there can be nothing gained to the amateur 
by mere enumeration. I have said comparatively 
few are to be had in shops, and that is true for 



78 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

this reason ; the woods the amateur can readily 
obtain, are the woods of commerce ; that is, those 
used in the arts and trades. No one imports 
woods at a venture, or on chance of sale. Dealers 
know their customers, and when, by chance, they 
find a captain of some foreign trader, who has a 
fancy lot which he has brought over, they send 
word to their best buyers, who come and view 
the lot, and take that which suits them, and the 
rest, worm-eaten and " wind-shaken," it may be, 
is either burnt up, or thrown on one side for some 
button maker, who may find in the short odds 
and ends a profitable bargain. I shall, therefore, 
mention but a few of the leading varieties of 
choice woods, and these the most marked and 
contrasted. Very many differ only in the name, 
and, as far as mere exterior goes, are hardly dis- 
tinguishable from each other, while others are 
positively ugly. 

SNAKE WOOD. 

Prominent on the list of foreign woods is snake 
wood, or, as it is sometimes called, leopard wood. 
The markings and mottlings in this wood are 
certainly superb in fine specimens. I have now 
before me a small vase, made of this material, 
which exhibits the most beautiful cloudings and 
veinings. The pattern, so to speak, is in alternate 



ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 79 

black and red blotches, like those on the back of a 
snake. AVhen varnished and French polished, 
these are brought out in strong relief, and the 
effect is very fine. There is one drawback to its 
use, however, and that is its brittleness. Not- 
withstanding the lathe be run at a high speed, it 
will frequently sliver and crack in the most un- 
looked-for and vexatious manner, and it is unsafe 
to undertake any very delicate or fine work that 
requires time and minute separation on the sur- 
face in this material ; for general work, however, 
which has mouldings and convolutions on it, it is 
easily manipulated, and is susceptible of a brilliant 
polish. Further : it has the advantage of being 
"fast colors," which is more than can be said 
of many other foreign woods. Whatever color 
may be developed in turning, will be retained to 
the end of time. This is not true of either tulip 
or granadilla wood. Both of these are brilliant 
in the extreme, when freshly cut, but by exposure 
to the air, fade away into the most sombre colors. 

TULir WOOD. 

This is a moderately hard wood, of a peculiar sal- 
mon-pink, veined with reddish brown and gray. 
The veinings are chiefly parallel with the grain, 
not straight, of course, but wavy and mottled. 
As previously remarked, it is beautiful when first 



so MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

cut, but gradually fades into a dingy, reddish 
brown. It is a handsome wood for contrasting 
with ebony, or any dark variety, and is chiefly 
used for inlaying costly furniture, such as musical 
iustvuiuents, work boxes, etc., etc. It is undeni- 
ably handsome, however, and by no means to be 
disparaged. 

GRANADILLA. 
This is ooiumonly called cocoa wood. It is 
hard, finely-veined, and capable of a handsome 
polish. It is largely used in the manufacture of 
tabic and pocket cutlery, for the handles. It 
conies in logs, from two to eight inches in dia- 
meter, and is one of the most easily worked 
woods. Quantities of it are employed for the 
'handles of seals or letter stamps, in which instru- 
ments its brownish yellow color and markings 
must be familiar to many. It fades, however, so 
that in time it becomes almost uniform in its tone. 

TAMARIND. 

This wood is very unfrequently met with. I 
obtained, by chance, a large log of a wood- worker, 
and was highly pleased with it. It can scarcely 
be called variegated, except so finely as to be un- 
uotieeable, but for a rich brown color and tint it 
is unapproachable. It is chocolate brown in hue, 



ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 81 

and so hard and close in fibre, as to rive like the 
husk of a cocoanut, while under a burnisher alone 
it polishes like ivorj. It is seldom one meets 
with a wood so wholly satisfactory, in its general 
nature, for all kinds of work where a hard grain 
and fine surface is desirable. 

CAM WOOD. 

This is a dye wood ; that is, the shavings 
boiled in water, or treated with alcohol, yield a 
handsome dye, which is largely used in the arts. 
It is moderately hard, in about the same degree 
as mahogany, and is plain in surface ; it is hand- 
some for inlaying and veneering in contrast with 
ebony, but changes to a brown with age. 

BOX WOOD. 
This is so well known to be a fine-grained, buff 
yellow color, and easily worked wood, as to need 
little further explanation of its characteristics. It 
is becoming scarcer and dearer every year, but is 
of little general value to the amateur from its 
monotonous sameness ; one piece being like all the 
others ; whereas, with snake wood, or granadilla, 
perpetual surprises await one. Eefuse box wood, 
in odd-shaped pieces, can be bought very cheap 
from those who make it a business to fit up blocks 
for engravers, and also from wood-type makers. 



82 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

LAUREL ROOT. 

This is a peculiar wood, and, in my opinion, 
more peculiar than pretty. It has a singular 
feeling under the tool, cutting much like cheese or 
gum ; like any thing else, in fact, but wood. In 
veining, it closely resembles brier wood and bird's 
eye maple ; pipes have been made of it. It is 
quite sound, but cannot be said to be handsome. 
It is the root of the common swamp laurel, I am 
told, and requires long seasoning and drying to 
be manipulated. 

WHITE HOLLY. 
This is a pure white wood, very easily bent, 
turned, and cut, straight of grain, and very useful 
for inlaying. Quantities of needle cases, fans, and 
such wares, are made of it. It is a native of this 
country, though the best is said to come from 
England. This seems quite unnecessary, for I 
have picked out of my wood-pile quantities of 
white holly, as handsome in color and in grain, as 
one could wish to see. 

EBONY. 

Every one has his prejudice, and I have no 
doubt but that many will consider me lacking in 
taste if I condemn this wood. It has one sole re- 
deeming feature — blackness — which renders it in- 



ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 83 

dispensable in many cases. Yet I have seen rock 
maple dyed black, that put ebony to shame for 
richness of color and fineness of grain. No ebony 
that I ever saw was black, naturally. It was 
brown, and became black by oiling and varnish- 
ing. There is a variety, called " bastard ebony," 
which is full of whitish brown stripes, and is soft 
like pine, but the true ebony is not to me a pre- 
cious wood, although it is expensive, and, in some 
cases, undeniably handsome. In spite of all se- 
lection, aided by good judges, I have frequently 
found my " black ebony " any thing but black ; 
it is full of season streaks and cracks, and splits in 
the most perverse and unexpected manner. 

OLIVE WOOD, 

This is the wood of the olive tree, and is chiefly 
valuable for its odor ; that is, to those who like 
that odor. In color it is like white wood, and is 
without any marked feature, except that of scent. 

SANDAL WOOD. 

This is a fragrant wood, light buff-colored, and 
very soft, and straight in grain. In general it is 
like pine wood, splitting straight, working easily, 
and valuable solely for its odor. 



8-i MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 
EOSE WOOD. 

This is an exceedingly beautiful wood, and is 
so well known, in its general nature, as to need 
no recommendation. In marking, it is so delicate 
as to admit of the finest work, and jet retain the 
beauty of the pattern. 

CURLED MAPLE. 

This is one of the most beautiful of our native 
woods ; in point of color, and power of retaining 
it, in marking and in variety, it is, to me, one of 
the most beautiful of all woods. The vein has a 
sinuous sweep and curve to it, which is heightened 
by varnishing and polishing, to a marked degree. 
All of the handsome woods, however, have a pecu- 
liar intractability, so to speak, which renders them 
slow and tedious to work. In fact, it is just this 
stubbornness of grain which renders them beauti- 
ful, for, by running in all directions, interlacing 
the fibres, so that the end of the grain is alter- 
nately presented side by side with the parallel 
grain, the light is caught and retained on dead 
surfaces that absorb it, making those beautiful con- 
trasts which the most uncultivated admire. 

bird's eye MAPLE. 

This is also a handsome wood, full of round 
spots interspersed with circular markings, the 



ORNAMENTAL WOODS. 85 

whole forming a handsome contrast when well 
handled. Pear and apple tree woods are also 
handsome, but none of the native woods exhibit 
BO great variety in tint and markings, as those 
which grow in tropical countries. There is no 
occasion to continue a mere list of woods which 
can be found in any shop, and this branch of .the 
subject will be dropped. 

TREATMENT. 

The first thing that occurs to the workman 
when he possesses or sees a handsome piece of 
wood, is: What shall I make with it? Many 
kinds of wood show well in large works, but in 
smaller wares, such as sleeve buttons, and napkin 
rings, they look like common wood ; it is, there- 
fore, labor lost to spend time in working out a 
nice job to show the veining and marking of the 
wood, because such veining is not brought out 
fully. The first care is to select sound wood. It 
is one of the most vexatious things in the world 
to have a nice job nearly done, and find a large 
worm hole extending right through the center of 
it, interfering with the tool and destroying the 
beauty of the piece. In such a case, the only re- 
sort is to plug it up, but no matter how skillfully 
this is done, the plug is certain to show, and 
always mars the appearance. Some kinds of 



86 MANUAL 0^ THE HAND LATHE. 

foreign woods are almost always worm eaten. 
Snake wood, for instance, is very liable to that 
fault, and too mucli care cannot be taken in ex- 
amining it. Ebony is not so liable to it, and 
native woods are peculiarly free from it. 



WOOD TURNING. 87 



CHAPTER XL 

WOOD TURNING. 

In turning wood, tlie speed cannot be too high, 
or the tool too sharp. The faster the speed, the 
more perfect the surface produced by the tool. In 
centering, also, it is necessary to use care in get- 
ting a sound place to begin on ; otherwise, when 
in the middle of a job, the centers change and the 
work is spoiled. This, of course, relates to work 
that is turned on centers, such as chess-men, pen- 
holders, rulers with ornamental ends, " what-not " 
legs ; in fact, anything of that class. The driving 
center or one that goes in the head of the lathe, 
commonly called the live center — in opposition to 
the one in the back end of the lathe head, which 
does not move, and is called the dead center — 
should be properly made, or Fig. 54. 

much confusion will be the re- | 

suit. Very many use the com- ^ 

mon bit, like Fig. 54, which is ■ 

a very poor device for the purpose. There 
being no guard at the corners of the bit, they are 
liable to slip when strain is brought on the work 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



Fig. 55. 




bj the tool ; it is, therefore, necessary to make 
the driving bit, or center, like Fig. 55, which re- 
presents a section through the front edge and the 
flat pieces at the top, to prevent the work from 
slipping. 

In turning very small work, say penholders 
for example, I have 
found centers useless 
to drive from, and 
after trying dogs, com- 
monly used for metal 
turning, and many 
other devices, have found no more efficient or 
expeditious plan than to round the end of the 
wood slightly with a pocket-knife, as in Fig. 56 ; 
insert the rounded end in a chuck, and place the 
other in the back center. In this way, I am able 
to command the whole range of the work, 
Fig. 56. from end to end, 

without interference, 
and to have the 
small tip where it is 
necessary to have it to keep steady ; that is, near 
the center. 

I saw all my pieces for turning, into square 
strips. I never split them ; splitting shivers and 
cracks hard and precious wood, and makes un- 
sound that which was previously sound. 




WOOD TURNING. 89 

Besides, it is more economical and more ex- 
peditious. If you cannot saw them yourself, 
handily, take them to the nearest wood-worker 
who has a circular saw, and he will do it for a 
trifle. 



90 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE 



CHAPTER XII. 

TOOLS FOR WOOD TURNING. 

It does not seem necessary to go into the dis- 
cussion of tools, or shapes of tools, for wood 
turning, for the grand and great reliance for 
roughing is the gouge, and a skillful workman 
will do as many things with it as the Eussian 
carpenter is said to do with his axe, which is al- 
most his only tool. For smoothing, there is the 
flat chisel, and for special work, every one will 
find tools, or, rather, make those he finds best 
suited to his needs. 

I would, however, here saj'- with great earnest- 
ness, that it makes all the difference in the world 
what kind of steel you get in your tools, whether 
they are worth any thing or not. I never found 
any turning tools in stores, that I considered 
worth any thing. They are generally made for 
working soft woods, such as pine, but the amateur 
needs tools of a different class and temper. Hard 
woods are full of dust on the outside, and seem 
more or less impregnated with silica, the principle 
which forms the coating on the stalks of rye and 



TOOLS FOE WOOD TURNING. 91 

cereal grains generally, which destroys the cutting 
edge in a short time, and also draws the temper. 
I have therefore found it convenient to make my 
own tools out of the best steel I could buy, and 
temper them myself. The difference is very 
marked, for where I formerly went to the grind- 
stone every few minutes, I now use a tool a long 
while, thus saving many steps and minutes. 

I therefore repeat — choose your steel from such 
as you find the best, and harden it yourself. If 
you don't know how, a few trials will enable you 
to do it " everytime," as the saying is. I have 
found Sanderson's, Jessops, and Stubbs, all good 
steel ; also Park Brothers American steel first-rate 
for general work. No doubt there are some who 
will take up this book, and for the first time read 
of the matters contained therein, to whom harden- 
ing and tempering are " all Greek ;" to such I will 
explain the process. 

Yery often amateurs buy tools which are good 
if they were only properly hardened, and to them 
also, it may be of service — if they do not already 
know it — to be able to do this simple thing. 



92 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

TOOL TEMPERING, ETC. 

The great object is to harden at as low a heat 
as possible, so as not to injure tlie steel. The 
tool must not be treated as a blacksmith does 
iron, nothing like so hot, but so as to be of a dull 
cherry color. Steel that will not harden at this 
heat is poor stock. When so heated, plunge it 
into cold water. This will make the tool hard 
and brittle, like glass, so that it is not fit to cut 
with; you must then rub it bright on a piece of 
emery paper or a grindstone, and hold it in the fire 
for a second or so at a time, until the temper is 
drawn to the right degree of toughness and tenaci- 
ty. This will be, for turning-tools for hard wood, 
of a dull blue-brown, say violet, color. Straw 
brown is hard enough to cut steel, and you do not 
want such a temper for wood in general, but for 
some purposes, it is desirable to have a very hard 
tool. When the edge crumbles, it is too hard, and 
must be lowered in temper ; when it rounds over, 
or dulls quickly, it is too soft, and needs to be 



TOOL TEMPERING, ETC. 



93 



hardened. This much in the way of tools of 
which more will be said hereafter. 

Many things are not held in the centers at all, 
but are grasped by chucks, of different patterns 
or shapes. This, to me, is the most satisfactory 
way of turning, inasmuch as it allows perfect 
liberty and sweep in all directions, and does not 
restrict the fancy or imagination of the work- 
man. 

It is not necessary to mention what kinds of work 
can be done, for that will occur to every one, but 
I will merely give here an illustration of the fa- 



Fig. 57. 



Fig. 58, 





cility which the chuck affords for all kinds of 
work. Fig. 57 is a box cover, and being held at 
first by the corners, permits the inside to be 
turned out to fit the bottom. Afterwards, what- 
ever finish or pattern is desired, can be given to 
the top. There is in every lathe, a center screw, 
like Fig. 58, which is useful for holding work 



94: MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

that has, or is to have, a hole in it, but for fine 
work it is not suitable, for the obvious reason 
that the screw spoils it. Fig. 57 is the scroll chuck, 
and is a favorite instrument of mine. I could 
dispense with many things— the face-plate of the 
lathe for one — better than I could with this. If 
I want to make a sleeve-button, there is mj 
friend, the scroll chuck, ready to hold the piece 
true to the center, without any adjustment what- 
ever and hold it firmly, too. If I wish to bore out a 
ring, the chuck will grasp true, and hold it with- 
out spring : in fact, not to dilate unnecessarily, I 
call it the one thing no turner can afford to be 
without. There are many in the market, but the 
best one for general work of this class, I have 
found to be that made by A. F. Cushman, of 
Hartford, Connecticut. He makes a very small 
chuck, also, for holding drills, that is exceedingly 
convenient for them, and for holding screw wire, 
or any work of that class. The " Beach Chuck," 
made by the Morse Twist Drill Company of New 
Bedford, Massachusetts, is also a good chuck, but 
as I am not now discussing the merits of chucks, 
I will return to the subject in hand — treatment of 
woods. 

I do not design, in this little work, telling any 
one how to hold a tool, for it is to be presumed 
that at least that part of the craft has been ac- 



TOOL TEMPEKING, ETC, 95 

quired. Even if I did essay to tell them, I could 
no more impart such knowledge than one could 
skate by seeing another person do it. Observa- 
tion and practice are the only teachers. 



96 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER Xiy. 

ARTISTIC WOOD TURNING. 

Some of the most beautiful work, really artis- 
tic in every sense of tlie word, is made by laying 
up woods of different colors, hut of the same general 
character as regards hardness. If this latter pre- 
caution, which I have italicised, be neglected, the 
result will be wholly unsatisfactory, for where 
two or more woods of different densities are laid 
up together, side by side, the tool will act upon 
the hardest very well, but will glide or spring 
over the inferior material, and thus leave an un- 
even surface. White holly and ebony work well 
enough together, but I do not consider ebony a 
hard wood. Of course there are many who will 
dispute this assertion, but it is easy enough to 
pick out specimens of any wood that are hard, but 
what I mean to say is, that, in general, it is not a 
truly hard wood, like rosewood or even cocoanut. 
White holly is almost as soft as pine, and con- 
trasts finely with the only natural black wood 
that we have. There is one other black wood, 
of which I have seen specimens, that is perfection 



ARTISTIC WOOD TURNING. 97 

itself, so far as color, grain, and strength are con- 
cerned. Indeed, it can scarcely be said to have a 
grain, so firm and solid is it in texture. It turns 
like horn, or ivory, and is of the " darkest, deep- 
est, deadliest," black. Unfortunately, I cannot 
give the name of it, for the reason that the gentle- 
man who gave it to me, did not know himself 
what it was, and he obtained it from the captain 
of a vessel trading to Africa.* 

Mere white and black wood, side by side, do 
not look well unless some kind of pattern or de- 
sign is observed, and if the pattern is obtained 
only at great expense of time and labor, it is also 
unsatisfactory. I shall show, further along, how 
different designs can be produced rapidly and ac- 
curately, with but comparatively little labor. 

By inlaying, too, many most beautiful designs 
can be produced, with but little labor compared 
to that which is generally bestowed upon such 
work. This kind of ornamentation is beautiful 
upon work tables, work boxes, cigar stands, paper 
knives, fan handles, fancy boxes, inkstands, card 
cases, vases, picture frames, penholders, sleeve 
buttons, ear-rings, chess and checker men, napkin 
rings, fancy drawer knobs, jewel caskets, watch 
holders, glove boxes, in fact, the whole array of 

*I have since learned that it is called African "Black Thorn." 
9 



98 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 

fine cabinet wori:, looks better when neatly and 
tastefully inlaid with woods that match and har- 
monize with the subject, and with each other. I 
think that some of the methods I practice are new 
to most persons, and I am sure they will be found 
accurate and expeditious ; which last is a point of 
no small importance ; for when a person works a 
long time over an elaborate thing, he gets terri- 
bly tired of it after while, if it is slow and plod- 
ding. In fact, where there is much that is uniform 
in character, as in making a check pattern, in 
black and white colors in squares, not over the 
tenth of one inch wide — it is impossible to make 
any thing like regularity, or fine fitting, and close 
joints, by handling each piece separately, 

I therefore have a variety of what I call 
" stock " on hand, ready laid up, in all colors and 
dimensions, so that I can choose from it exactly 
as I would pick out a tool. This stock consists 
of wood laid up in the patterns shown in Figs. 
59-67, and of sizes varying according to my de- 
signs, but generally very near the sizes here 
shown. 

These are laid up in long strips, say twelve 
inches long, or as may be conveniently handled. 
They are all sawed out with a fine circular saw, 
by some one who understands cutting hard wood 
for this purpose. The stuff must be shoved 



AETISTIC WOOD TURNING. 



99 



through the saw with a very regular, gradual 
feed, so as to cut a smooth surface, and if the saw 
is not right for cutting smooth on the side, it 
must be made so ; for it will not do to plane the 
strips after they are sawed, as there never would 
be any uniformity between them, and the joints 

Fig. 59. Fig. 60. Fig. 61. 




Fia;. 63. 



Fig. 63. 




Fig. 64. Fig. 65. Fig. 66. 



Fig. 67. 




would be very imperfect. In gluing them up, 
there is nothing particular to be observed, except 
that the glue must be very hot, laid on well with 
a stiff brush, and the stuff clamped between two 
thick boards, which have been planed perfectly 
true on the faces ; so that the union will be perfect 
between the strips. In this way the job will be. 



100 



MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



well done, and the sections will show uniformly. 
As it is the sections that are mainly used, this is a 
matter of great importance ; for when it is neces- 
sary to have an ornamental border to a work-box, 
for example, it is only requisite to saw off as 
many sections, from the end of any of the blocks, 
as may be desired ; as in Fig. 68. It is then a 

Fig. 68. 




Fig. 69. 



simple and easy thing to lay them in, one after 
another, in the place that has been left for them. 

I do not saw off each square strip by itself be- 
fore I glue the stock, but I lay up several flat 
pieces, as in Fig. 69, which represents one end 
section of the strips, longer than it 
is high, the saw removes some in 
cutting, so that when I saw down 
through the top vertically, as 
shown by the straight line A, T ob- 
tain square strips in long pieces, but all glued to- 
gether so they are easy to handle, these I after- 
ward glue together again, so that white and black 




AETISTIC WOOD TURNING. 101 

alternate, as in tlie cliecker-board, and I then have 
the pattern precisely uniform in all the length of 
the stock. I claim originality for this plan, and 
also expedition in execution ; more than either I 
get entire uniformity. Of course it is easy to 
make any other pattern in the same way, and it is 
surprising to see how many rectangular and acute- 
angled patterns can be made with these sections. 
It is sometimes possible to get veneers of the 
right thickness, but any veneer cutter will saw 
the wood as desired. 

Since the paragraph above was written, I have 
seen some " Tunbridge Ware" work made in 
England, which is, I am sure, done in the same 
way. Therefore, I am not the originator of the 
idea, but I can certify that it is a good and a 
quick way of making very elaborate patterns. 



102 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



♦i 



CHAPTER XY. 

STAMP INLAYING. 

Of course there are times and places where the 
sameness and rigidity of angular patterns are te- 
dious, and the eye and hand, fatigued by it, 
desire a change into something more graceful and 
harmonious in effect. The smaller the pattern, 
the more tedious, irksome, and expensive the 
goods. To avoid delay is one object of the work- 
man, but to obtain perfection is the chief. In 
order to do this, we must have some plan or some 
tool to multiply the same shape with great ra- 
pidity and regularity. 

In fine workmanship, or rather in small pieces, 
it would be impossible to cut out any great num- 
ber with the certainty of their being at all similar ; 
some would be large, some small, and all different. 
Let us imagine that it is desired to inlay a laurel 
wreath, or a garland of stars in an elliptic pattern 
about the edge of a box cover, as in Fig. 70. It 
will be seen that to cut each one in with a chisel 
would be an endless task. I therefore propose 
to do it much quicker than it can be done by 



STAMP INLAYING. 



103 



other plan, and that is by a stamp. I make a 
Fig. 70. 




steel stamp, or punch, of the exact size of the 
pattern I wish to let in the box, and am careful to 
have it bevel inwards, from the edges toward the 
top, as in Fig. 71, not only to avoid breaking 
down the edges, but to make a clean, sharp im- 
pression in the 
wood. It is ne- 
cessary to cut in 
pretty deep, for, 
with all your care, you cannot avoid breaking the 
edge to some extent, and it can only be practised on 



Fig. 71. 



104 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

any solid, sound wood, not veneered. Except for 
large patterns, I do not put veneers in these inci- 
sions, or stamp markings, as I coald not cut them 
out so small, as the pattern shows in the engrav- 
ing, but I either make a cement of white lead, and 
push that into the holes, or, using the same 
stamp I cut in the pattern in the wood with, I cut 
pieces out of thin sheet German silver, and push 
them in with great ease. If I use silver, I am 
careful to cut in below the surface of the cover 
on the box, so that I can put the cover in the 
lathe again, and reflnish the top so as to be flush 
with the silver. In this way I get a true, uniform, 
and even pattern, which looks as if it had grown 
in its place ; for grace and elegance of appearance, 
it cannot be surpassed. Where it is absolutely 
necessary to use a chisel and cutting tool to inlay 
with, I still make stamps, even so large as half an 
inch superficial area, for they are soon cut out, 
and serve to mark the outlines for the chisel, so 
that it is easier to cut the pattern by their aid. 

In straight lines, or even in letting in circles, 
parts of circles, ellipses, in fact, any curved or 
angular work with veneers, I invariably cut the 
pattern out before laying it on the box, and then 
fit the other colored pieces in the spaces left. 
Very many veneers cannot be handled at all when 
dry, without breaking all to pieces and spoiling 



STAMP INLAYING. 105 

the pattern. It will be necessary to soak ebony, 
for instance, for some time before you want to use 
it. With this precaution, you can cut it in any 
shape without danger. It is the same with maple 
veneer. When I have cut out an intricate pat- 
tern in ebony, and wish to inlay the same with 
holly, I obtain an exact duplicate of the shape the 
holly should have, by placing it, wet, over the 
ebony, holding it firmly, so that it cannot slip, 
and then rapping the holly with the end of a tool 
handle. In this way a fac simile of the pattern is 
transferred in wet lines to the holly, and you have 
only to follow them over with a lead pencil to get 
a perfect shape. Then take a sharp square-ended 
knife, and laying the veneer on a hard surface, 
cut slowly and carefully all round the marks, and 
after a few incisions, you will have the satisfaction 
of seeing it come out perfect. 



106 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 

These methods greatly expedite the labor of 
inlaying, for mere labor mucli of it is ; that is, 
when repetition of the pattern is frequent, as it is 
in small designs. 

The great trouble and vice of amateur me- 
chanics is haste; they are too anxious to see the 
result of a design to give it proper attention in 
detail, and, as a consequence, it lacks that nicety 
and uniform elegance that characterize the shop- 
made goods. For where men work by the day, 
they are not too energetic as a rule. 

DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 

By this I mean the employment of small bits of 
different colored woods to produce a certain effect. 
I have seen many that were made to represent 
foliage of trees, the wood being stained green, of 
course, but these works of art seem to me labor 
thrown away, and, except as mere curiosities, are 
in no wise attractive ; for no workman can do 



DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 107 

more than imitate nature in this line, and it is a 
poor imitation. 

A legitimate branch of this line of work is that 
wherein small bits, say of the size of Fig, 72, can 
be conveniently used. When laid in nicely, and 
the colors arranged to harmonize, they certainly 
look well, resembling the straw j,. ^^ 

flower work, or inlaid straw ^ — ?> 

work of Japan. The wood may 
be dyed innj color desired, but it is much nicer to 
use those colored by nature, which do not fade. 
I give here a list of naturally colored woods, use- 
ful for this kind of work. 

Black — Ebony, 

Red— Cam Wood, Tulip Wood. 

Yellow — Boxwood, 

White— Holly. 

Brown — Walnut, Cocoa, 

Red Brown — Spanish Cedar (cigar box). 

These woods all inlay well except the Spanish 
Cedar and Walnut, which are apt to chip and 
sliver off on the edges, when cut thin. Cam wood 
is a pretty red wood, very close in grain, but not 
to be had in veneers, as it is used chiefly for 
making dyes. Most of this kind of work looks 
better when ranged in angles about a center, 
though I recently saw a work-box in Boston, 
which had an accurate representation of a worsted 



108 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

pattern worked on a canvas, but as the workman 
had unfortunately selected a very ugly pattern, 
and the woods had faded, his labor was wholly 
thrown away. 

After having arranged or laid one course in 
mosaic work, it is comparatively easy to follow 
the whole around, but it is absolutely essential 
that the pieces to be let in should be fac similes 
of each other, for unless this is the case, the pattern 
will come out wrong when the ends are joined, or 
where it meets. Great care must be observed in 
this, and as it would be almost impossible to cut 
slips of veneer so small, and be accurate, I prefer 
to take a slip of wood, and saw off of the end, 
having, of course, previously planed and calli- 
pered the stick perfectly true. Here let me say, 
that the saw I use for this purpose, is the watch- 
makers' dividing saw, the same as jewellers use. 
Some of the saws are scarcely larger than a horse 
hair, while others are three-tenths of an inch deep 
and very narrow. With this instrument I can 
work very delicately as regards thinness and 
smoothness of surface. It is also admirable for 
scroll sawing, of which more hereafter. 

Of course, all these are small jobs, and small, 
fine work; when it comes to more elaborate pat- 
terns, such as a regenerally found on tables, work- 
boxes, musical boxes, and similar things, it re- 



DESIGNS IN MOSAIC. 109 

quires more time, but as tlie pattern is large, it re- 
quires no particular patience beyond that which 
a very fine piece of work does. But where the 
pieces are small, as in mosaic, it takes a great deal 
of patience to pick up one after another, and no 
small degree of artistic talent to bring them all in 
in the right place. 

10 



110 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER XYII. 

FINISHING THE OUTSIDE. 

When the pattern has all been laid, the next 
thing that remains is to finish the exterior, and 
polish it or oil it as may be desired. To do this 
it is, of course, necessary to use great care. The 
veneers, if they have been used, are very thin, 
about the twenty-fifth part of an inch, and there is 
not much to come off. It must therefore be 
scraped very carefully with a sharp scraper, 
either in the lathe, or, if the work be a flat sur- 
face, by a scraper held in the hand, and made of 
sheet steel of the best quality. In using the 
scraper, care must be taken to humor the grain 
of the wood, so that it will not be roughened up 
by being rubbed the wrong way. When it has 
been scraped sufficiently smooth, it must be tho- 
roughly rubbed with sand paper, until it has an 
even, uniform surface all over. If it is to be var- 
nished and polished, French polish as it is termed, 
such as is seen on pianos, it will require a long time 
and much experience to make it a success. The 
reason is this : the polish is really given to the 



FINISHING THE OUTSIDE.. Ill 

gum of which the varnish is composed, and not to 
the wood itself. The gum sinks into the pores of 
the wood and fills them up, and hardens as it is 
applied, but the fluids in which the gums are dis- 
solved, either turpentine or oil, evaporate compar- 
atively slowly, so that before each coat is applied, 
the previous one must be dry and hard, or else 
the next one will be streaky, and the surface will 
be ridgy. 

The length of time depends greatly on the 
weather ; from three to six months being re- 
quired to properly dry and harden a piano-case so 
that it will wear — six months is, however, ex- 
treme, and is only the case in very warm weather. 
It will easily be seen why so many amateurs fail 
in producing that vitreous glaze, or polish, which 
is so universally admired. Not one in fifty has 
patience enough to wait until the first coat dries, 
before the second is applied, and they keep trying 
the varnish, to see if it won't work, in a day or 
two after it has been put on. It sometimes takes 
ten days before the third coat is ready to apply 
the next. It is a common fault to apply too much 
varnish on the first coat. It is necessary to rub 
it into the grain of the wood, so that it is tho- 
roughly charged with it, and sinks into the pores. 
By rubbing it is merely meant to take a little on 
the brush and cover the surface gradually, without 



112 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

trying to make it look well or ill. The ground 
work has to be put on first, before any thing can 
be done toward ornamenting. After one coat has 
been put on, it must be rubbed down with sand pa- 
per to remove any varnish that may not have sunk 
into the work, and when all is fair and smooth and 
dry, a second coat may be applied and treated in 
the same way. The third coat may be applied 
rather more freely, and must be left to get tho- 
rougly hard before treating it. It must then be 
rubbed freely with pumice stone flour, and water. 
This will leave it bright and hard if the varnish 
has been skillfully put on, and a coat of flowing 
varnish may now be put on for the last. Flowing 
varnish is so-called because it is lighter in body 
than most varnishes, and is intended as the last of 
all, to produce that elegant glossy surface which 
characterizes all fine work. 

Many persons use shellac varnish, which is 
simply gum lac (the proper name is " lac "), 
which is a gum found in the Indies ; the trade 
give it the names of shell-lac and seed-lac, and 
one other which I have forgotten : shell-lac is the 
kind used for varnish. The gum is simply dis- 
solved in alcohol of high proof; the solution 
being aided by exposure to a warm place and 
agitation from time to time. As this varnish 
dries immediately, or within an hour, owing to 



FINISHING THE OUTSIDE. 113 

tlie rapid evaporation of the alcohol ; it is very 
convenient for amateurs who are of an energetic 
turn of mind, and wish to see their productions 
turned and finished in a breath, as one may say. 
It takes a fair polish, but is by no means so dura- 
ble or beautiful as copal or hard varnishes. On 
some woods, as, for instance, cherry, pine, or 
cedar, it is very appropriate, and looks well. 

It is quite easy to write these instructions and 
observations down, but there is a dexterity, ac- 
quired only by practice, which cannot be told to 
any one, and the operator must, if possible, inform 
himself by visiting the nearest cabinet or piano 
factory, and see with his eyes for himself. 

I should have said previously that ivory black 
introduced into shell-lac varnish, gives a very 
good black lacquer, closely imitating japan, while 
other colors, such as blue, carmine, green, or yel- 
low, have the effect of enamel when handsomely 
rubbed down and polished with several coats. I 
have seen some most beautiful knobs for drawers, 
fancy handles, etc., made in this way, that looked 
like porcelain. 

Oiled wood looks well in furniture, and there 
may be some who desire to use it on fancy work. 
It is simply linseed oil applied in successive coats ; 
but it requires time to dry, and alwaj^s has a dis- 
agreeable odor about it. 
10* 



114 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

INLAYING CONTINUED. 

A VERY convenient tool for inlaying 
veneers edgewise, so as to produce alter- 
nate dark and wliite lines is made by tak- 
ing a piece of steel, one fourth of an inch 
by one sixteenth thick, and making a 
chisel, like Fig. 73. The bottom is 
rounded to prevent it from digging in. 
To use this tool, or to inlay fine white 
and black lines, or white lines alone, all 
over the surface of any piece of wood in 
any pattern desired, it is only needful to 
mark out the pattern first, incise it all 
around with a sharp keen edge, such as 
a knife blade broken off to form a square 
end, and then follow the lines with this 
tool, when the wood will come away, leav- 
ing a clean channel, in which the veneer 
may be inserted with expedition and 
neatness. In crossing the corners, it is 
necessary to use caution, so that they be 
not broken away, for no inlaying looks 
well if chipped, or ragged at the edges. 



INLAYING CONTINUED. 115 

This is especially convenient for drawing lines 
across mahogany boxes that have been put toge- 
ther before inlaying was thought of for them. 
The veneers should all be glued together, side 
and side first, that is, if two colors are used, then 
they will fit on the ends properly, and may be 
handled with more expedition. 

GLUING IN VENEEES. 

In a previous part of this little work I have ad- 
vised the use of waterproof cements for fine in- 
laying, so that dampness will not aSect them, but 
as this is not always convenient, it is well to make 
the glue so that it can be used and the work 
finished oJBf in a short time. This is easily done 
by making the glue as thick as it will run, or so 
that it is like a jelly. If applied in this condition, 
it will set hard in thirty minutes, and the work 
may be cut down without fear or danger of its 
moving. I have done this frequently, in order to 
see what kind of work I was making. Always 
put a clamp on your work wherever you can, for 
although the glue will adhere of itself to the 
wood, it adheres much more strongly if pressed 
down by a clamp. Also, never put a veneer on a 
piece of work that is uneven, for although it may 
set square under the pressure of the clamp, when 
you come to scrape it, it will give way and yield 



116 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

to the inequalities, and when varnished and 
polished, will be full of depressions. 

Don't be afraid to rub down with sand paper, 
under the impression that you are spoiling the 
work, but let the varnish get thoroughly dried, 
and be hard before you attempt it. Be sure, also, 
to remove every particle of varnish if you touch 
it at all, otherwise that which remains will take a 
coat while the bare wood will not take so much, 
and you will have a surface full of scars and 
ridges. It is not necessary to touch the wood in 
Tabbing down, but go down to the wood, so that 
a waxy appearance is presented, and you will have 
a handsome finish that will add greatly to the 
beauty of the work. White holly is easily soiled 
when used in connection with ebony, by the dust 
from it, and it will be necessary to rub it, or scrape 
it delicately, before varnishing, without touching 
the ebony. 

IVOEY. 
This substance is certainly a most attractive 
one to the turner. Pure in color, hard, solid and 
strong beyond belief in texture or grain, it has 
the fewest disadvantages of any substance we 
use. It is easily dyed to any shade, and will hold 
it a long while. Either for jewelry, or rather for 
personal adornment, or articles of utility, it is 



INLAYING CONTINUED. 117 

well adapted, and but for the cost of it would 
be in general use. It is getting dearer and 
scarcer each year. The best comes from Ceylon, 
and that in least repute from African elephants ; 
the former is said to be much stronger and more 
solid. 

Of its general manipulation there is not much 
to be said, except that the workman will find it 
trying to the edge of his tools. In all respects it 
can be cut and turned like hard woods. 

Fig. 74. 



It is easily softened by immersion for a time in 
weak acid, so that its friability, toughness, or 
tendency to resist the carving tool, is destroyed, 
and this without injuring the goods, unless the 
acid is too strong. 

As it is so expensive in general, it is well for 
the amateur to know that he can purchase it in all 
shapes, either in squares like Fig. 74, or in flat, 
cord-like slips, from dealers in it. I will mention 
one person, F. Grote, 78 Fulton street, New York, 
who generally has a good assortment of this kind. 

It is extremely convenient to find pieces of the 
exact size and shape one needs, and it is also 



118 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

economical, botli in time and material, for all 
ivory must be sawed, and that is slow work where 
there are no facilities. After the article, what- 
ever it may be, is turned, it may be either dyed, 
or polished in its natural color. 

POLISHING. 
This is performed in the easiest way. A wet 
rag will polish ivory, but in order to put on a 
brilliant gloss, take starch, or Spanish white, satu- 
rate a wet rag with it, and hold it on the work ; 
when dried off and rubbed with a woolen cloth or 
a piece of chamois leather, it will have a brilliant 
and durable gloss. 

DYEING IVOEY. 

I tried a great many plans and recipes for dye- 
ing ivory before I hit upon any that were in all 
respects satisfactory. Most of them were nasty, 
involved the purchase of drugs and dyes that 
were sure to be adulterated, and the results were 
vexatious, but one day, in dyeing some silk with 
family dye color, prepared by Howe and Stevens, 
of Boston, Massachusetts, the idea occurred to me 
to try it on ivory. It succeeded to admiration, 
and I had found what I had so long sought, 
namely, a clean, cheap, simple and sure method 
of coloring ivory to any shade needed, in a short 



INLAYING CONTINUED. 119 

time. The color can always be had, ready for 
use, in any town, as much so as a bottle of ink, 
while the various shades and gradations of tint 
are ready made to hand ; there is no need of stale 
urine, or any other mess, — simple immersion in 
the hot liquid from ten to twenty- four hours will 
give a permanent and brilliant hue to any article. 
I have never seen such brilliant colors as these 
dyes give. The solferino and the black are par- 
ticularly handsome, and are insoluble in water ; 
that is, the goods may be washed without injury. 
The solferino will not bear hard rubbing in water, 
but the black and other colors will, without in- 
jury. The depth to which the color penetrates de- 
pends upon the length of time the goods are im- 
mersed, but twenty-four hours, and even six hours 
in some cases, will answer all purposes. For chess- 
men, the solferino is a splendid color, while all 
the other tints can be had for other kinds of fancy 
work. 

Ivory is particularly suitable for mosaic inlay- 
ing, as it never chips, and can be cut into the small- 
est and thinnest pieces without danger of fracture. 
It will hold on wood with glue, though there are 
other cements, stronger, for the purpose. 

It can also be dyed before inlaying, and after- 
wards rubbed down to a uniform surface, but the 
work must be done well, as the dyes do not always 



120 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

penetrate equally, and if the work is delicate and ' 
the design small, it is apt to change the colors to 
rub them down. Napkin rings, breast pins, 
masonic mallets and emblems generally, miniature 
gothic chairs with carved backs for ornamental 
purposes, chess and checker men, small boxes for 
lip and eye salves, needle cases, thimble cases, 
ring and jewel boxes, penholders, silk-winders 
card cases, all afford a fine opportunity for the 
skill and taste of the amateur. 



ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 121 



CHAPTER XIX. 

ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 

Although a handsomely veined piece of wood 
is as beautiful a thing as any one would wish to 
see, there are occasionally pieces of work that 
look well inlaid, and for this it is desirable that 
we should have as pretty patterns and judiciously 
chosen woods and contrasts as we can get. 

I give here what I think is a pretty design for 
the cover of a round box. It is easily made, and 
I venture to suggest that the following colors will 
will be found agreeable ; No. 1, tulip with out- 
side edge of white holly, tulip to be cut across the 
grain. No. 2, ebony cut out of a solid veneer, 
that is not pieced. It will save a great deal of 
time and labor to glue this veneer on to mahoga- 
ny a quarter of an inch thick, and then saw the 
pattern out with a fine turn-saw. To get the 
veneer off whole, soak it in warm water for a 
few minutes. No. 3, boxwood. No. 4, ebony. 
No. 5, tulip, or, if you can get it, turtle wood. 
It is sometimes to be had of Henry A. Kerr, 
Center street, New York, dealer in woods. The 
11 



122 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE, 

central flower can be omitted or executed. It is 
a good deal of work, but v/ill make a beautiful 
piece when well done. Turtle wood is very re- 
markable, being yellow inclining to salmon, 
mottled with brownish black streaks, sometimes 
black with superb crimson markings, like a sum- 
mer sunset after a thunder storm. 

Fig. 76 is another similar pattern. Of course the 
workman will make such disposition of the colors 
as he pleases. When these are varnished and 
French polished, they certainly look splendidly, 
and are specimens of work that any one may be 
proud of; of course supposing them to be well 
litted as to joints, and without the glairy, sticky 
appearance that characterizes varnish half rubbed 
down, and that worked before it has hardened. 
Hardening and drying are two different things, 
Yarnish dries before it hardens, and requires time, 
the more the better, to season, so it can be polished. 
This is a very easy pattern to fit, and any one of 
experience can make it complete in four or six 
hours. 

Fig, 77 is still another pattern, but what is 
shown dark, as at A, in the outer circles should 
be light to represent tulip wood. Tulip contrasts 
splendidly with ebony. The center or body of 
the cover should be rosewood. This must be put 
on first, all over the whole surface, and a white 



OENAMENTAL DESIGNS FOR INLAYING. 123 

holly ring put on tlie outside edge. The exterior 
and interior circles, which form the pattern, are 
then cut out hy a tool like a carpenter's bit used 
in the lathe, as in this diagram. The letter a is 
round, and will, of course, make a slight center 
hole in the box cover, but as it is covered up that 
IS a matter of no moment. The inner circles B 
should also be tulip, or some wood that contrasts 
with ebony ; mahogany is very handsome. This 
pattern is not pretty, but it is striking and unique, 
which is sometimes the same thing. Of course, 
the distances of the circles must be determined 
beforehand with a pair of compasses. 

In scroll sawing much can be done that is 
pleasing to the eye in small works, but for large 
designs and intricate ones, the amateur will find 
an upright or jig saw necessary, unless he be more 
than usually patient. 

For the joints of boxes before veneering I al- 
ways prefer screws rather than dovetailing, which 
takes a long time, and is no better when done ; 
screws are sure, never start, and save time, which 
is a great consideration with amateurs, whose 
tasks are often, indeed, in nearly all cases, carried 
on after some other labor is over, in the interim 
between arduous toil. 

White woods, such as holly, need white glue, 
else the joints will show. Beware of dust in your 



124 MANUAL OP THE HAND LATHE. 

varnish brush, and take care that yo"u soak it for 
half a day before using it, else the hairs will come 
out on your work and ruin it. Flat, camel's hair 
brushes are to be used, and can be had in every 
paint store. Use only the whitest copal varnish 
for your white holly, else you will find it yellow 
holly after the varnish has been put on. Most 
varnishes need thinning slightly with turpentine 
before use, especially if they have been kept some 
time. 

Keep your lathe centers so that they run true 
on the points at all times, and have a mark on 
them so that they always enter from the same 
side of the lathe mandrel. 

When you put clamps on to hold your veneers, 
as you always should, be careful, if your wood is 
soft, that you do not set the clamps so tight as to 
sink the veneer into the lower wood, for the 
result will be an uneven surface, that nothing can 
remedy. 

Be careful to have clean glue and clean surfaces 
if you wish to make sound work. Dust or grit 
ruins glue so that it will not hold. 



GENERAL SUMMARY. 125 



CHAPTER XX. 

GENERAL SUMMARY. 

In polishing metals, whether brass, iron, steel, 
or of whatever nature, it is essential that the tool 
marks and scratches of files, or other agents, 
should be entirely removed before the final gloss 
is given, otherwise the work will have a cheap 
look that detracts very much from its appearance. 

If emery of the finest character (flour) is used, 
with oil, the result will be very beautiful, but 
tins makes a mess about the lathe it is desirable 
to avoid. Polish with oil is softer in appearance 
than dry polishing, and is much more durable, 
being not so liable to rust and tarnish. Dry 
polishing is performed with sand paper of various 
grades, running from | to 0. This gives a very 
bright, dazzling finish, that is easily rusted. 
Brass must be treated with rotten stone and oil to 
be nicely polished, and after this the burnisher 
should be used. Lacquers are employed for the 
purpose of preserving the polish unimpaired, and 
are made as follows : 



126 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE 

LACQUERS. 

2 gals. AlcoHol, proof, specific gravity not less 
than 95 per. cent. 
1 lb. Seed-lac. 
1 oz. Gum Oopal. 
1 oz. English. Saffron. 

1 oz. Annotto. 

Another. 
40 ozs. Proof Alcohol. 
8 grs. Spanish Annotto. 

2 drs. Turmeric. 
J oz. Shellac. 

12 grs. Red Sanders. 

When dissolved add 30 drops Spirit of Tur- 
pentine. 

Directions for Making. — Mix the ingredients, 
and let the vessel containing them stand in the 
sun, or in a place slightly warmed, for three or 
four days, shaking it frequently till the gum is 
dissolved, after which let it settle from 24 to 48 
hours, when the clear liquor may be poured off 
for use. Pulverized glass is sometimes used in 
making lacquers, to carry down the impurities. 

The best burnisher is a piece of bloodstone 
ground to shape and set in a handle ; they can be 
bought for about a dollar and a half at any watch- 



GENEKAL SUMMARY. 127 

makers' tool store, Eouge powder is also an ex- 
cellent thing for polishing brass and German 
silver. German silver, in wire, also in sheet, can 
be had at the same place. 

For silver plating fluid the workman will find 
that manufactured by Howe & Stevens, Boston, 
Massachusetts, to be the best of its class, as it 
leaves a thin coating of pure silver on the metal, 
which can be renewed from time to time, as it 
wears, by a fresh application. 

Any articles that require to be gilt can be best 
done by electro platers, who will deposit as much 
gold on the surface as one desires, even to the 
thirty-second part of an inch. It is better, how- 
ever, to buy a small battery, which can be had for 
four or five dollars, and do this for yourself. Yery 
many other things can be electro-plated, and 'fac- 
similes of medals produced at a small cost, which 
will be both instructive and ornamental. 

SOLDERING. 

There are many ways of soldering, but the 
amateur will find the spirit lamp and the solder- 
ing iron the most convenient and expeditious. 

In soldering tinned surfaces, no particular care 
is needed, as the solder will adhere easily, but in 
brass, or other metals, it does not do so without 
the aid of a rosin flux or acid solution. These 



128 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATKE. 

simply act to make the surfaces chemically clean, 
so that the solder will hold. In fact, cleanliness 
is absolutely indispensable to success, for the 
solder will crawl off of any thing that is dirty or 
greasy, even though it may not appear to be so. 
Lead and tin are used for solder, and can be 
bought of any tinner yery cheaply. The end of 
the soldering iron (which is not iron, but copper, 
by the way) should be tinned, otherwise the sol- 
der will not hold on it, neither will it follow when 
the iron is drawn along a seam. 

The iron is readily tinned' in this way. File it 
to the shape you want it, and put it in the fire, 
heating it pretty hot, but nothing like redness. 
You are then to wipe it clean quickly on a rag 
wet with soldering fluid, which can be had in 
drug stores, and is made of muriatic acid and 
sheet zinc dissolved in the same ; the zinc must 
be clean, and in small strips, and shaken gradually 
until dissolved. The solution must then be well 
diluted with water. It is used by wetting the 
rag aforesaid with it and rubbing the iron in it ; 
if block tin in strips be now rubbed on the end 
of the iron, it will adhere, and the iron will be 
ready for use. The iron must not be heated so as 
to melt off the tin and expose the copper under- 
neath ; for the iron is then useless until tinned 
again. . 



GENERAL SUMMARY. 129 

The soldering fluid is always to be used when 
brass, or any surfaces not coated with, tin, are to 
be united, 

By the spirit lamp you can join metallic sur- 
faces very easily and quickly as follows : take 
your plate, or whatever it is you wish to join to- 
gether, and scour it bright with fine sand-paper 
or pumice stone and water, on the faces to be 
united. Apply the soldering fluid, hold it over 
the spirit lamp blaze, and as soon as it is well 
heated, rub it over with a stick of tin ; when it is 
well tinned, lay it on a hot flat iron or the stove 
for a minute, until you have tinned the other 
piece, then clap both together, and they will set 
instantly. 

The blowpipe is very convenient for soldering 
small pieces together that cannot be touched with 
the iron, but as it requires some skill to use it, 
the amateur is not likely to be very successful 
with it. The articles to be soldered in this way, 
should be placed on a piece of charcoal, so that 
the heat will be equally distributed and kept up 
during the process. 

VARNISHING AND POLISHING. 

On no account is a second coat of varnish to be 
applied before the first one is dry. If this is done 
the result will be a sticky, ridgy, dirty looking 



130 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE, 

job. Before the work is varnislied even, it must 
be thorougblj sandpapered to remove inequalities, 
and the last sandpapering should be with the 
finest grade. Then apply the varnish, taking 
care not to put too much on for the first coat. 
When that is dry and hard, sandpaper with fine 
paper again and varnish again. Three to four 
coats are enough for ordinary work. When the 
last coat is dry and hard, get some floated pumice 
stone flour, that is, pumice stone flour that has 
been washed, mix it with water to about the 
thickness of cream ; apply it to a woolen rag, and 
rub it gently over the work; not too hard, for 
that would cut the varnish off down to the wood. 
After a while you will see that the surface of the 
varnish begins to have a hard, smooth body, like 
carriage work. When this occurs, you can wash 
the pumice stone all off, and take a little Tripoli 
or rotten stone and oil, and rub gently all over 
the job ; you will then have a surpassingly beau- 
tiful and brilliant surface, that will show the 
grain and vein of the wood to perfection. If you 
desire the gloss that varnish gives, you must 
apply a thin coat of wearing varnish after this, 
In varnishing, you must buy " rubbing varnish " 
if you intend to polish and oil varnish, not spirit, 
which is apt to crack and rub up under the treat- 
ment. 



GENERAL SUMMARY. 181 

BRUSHES, 

In varnishing, you, of course, desire to Lave t» 
true and even surface, without a ridge to show 
where the brush left it. Camel's hair flat brushes 
are used for this purpose, but they will not an- 
swer in spirit varnishes, as the hairs drop out or 
are loosened from the action of the spirit on the 
shellac or glue, which holds them in. Bristle 
brushes are the best for general use. They must 
be soaked for an hour or more in cold water, to 
fasten the bristles before using. 

PEARL. 

This substance is easily sawed into shape, and 
is easily turned with a common steel tool. It is 
polished readil}'- with pumice stone and water and 
"putty powder," this last to be had of chemists 
or lapidaries. It is better to preserve the colored 
surface as nature left it, for the beautiful rays 
and tints presented by it are owing to a peculiar 
disposition of thin scales on the surface, which re- 
tain the light; if these be destroyed, the beauty 
of the material is lost. It is to be had of marine 
store keepers generally, or the amateur can get it 
more readily of the nearest button manufacturer. 

MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS, 
If you buy any tools, always buy the best that 
money can get. P. S. Stubs' files, wire, limmers, 



132 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

and screw plates, are standard tools, and the ama- 
teur cannot go astray in choosing them. A vise 
is indispensable, and it should be large enough to 
hold the work without springing. 

CURVING MAPLE VENEEES. 

If you wish to curve a veneer so that it will fit 
a half or a whole circle, it is easily done by dip- 
ping it in hot water, when it will instantly curl 
up into any shape you want. I do this with bird's 
eye maple. This wood is easily stained any hue, 
and is rather handsomer in chocolate brown than 
in its natural color. It is then the nearest to 
French oak of any wood that we have, and that is 
unquestionably superb. Such markings and mot- 
tlings as it has, surpass anything ever seen; it is 
a deep, rich, chocolate brown color, full of snarls, 
curves, and knots, not over five eights of an inch 
in their largest diameters, and so beautiful that it 
seems as if some hand must have arranged them. 

The French oak is susceptible of a splendid 
polish, but I am unable to say how it works, for 
I never worked any, nor do I know where to get 
it. Curled maple will also take a handsome dye. 
Get Howe & Stevens's Dye Colors in powder — ■ 
they can be had in any apothecary's store, of 
any shade — put it in an earthen dish and boil 
it, then dip or sponge the veneer with it. The 



GENERAL SUMMARY. 133 

color will strike through and through, and you 
may sand-paper it as much as you please without 
removing it. It is a very beautiful job to take a 
plain ogee moulding and curl a bird's eye maple 
veneer on the round part, and an ebony veneer 
on the fiUet or hollow, and then varnish and 
polish it. It makes one of the most beautiful 
picture frames that ever was seen ; having all the 
effect of mouldings made from the solid wood. 

CUTTING MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS. 

By these I mean horn jet, malachite, alabaster, 
cannel coal, glass, and similar substances. For 
all of these, except malachite, steel will answer, 
but that steel will not touch. It is not a nice 
material to work, being apt to check and crack in 
the most unlooked-for manner. To those who 
have never seen it, I will say that it is a stone, or 
species of marble, obtained in Eussia, and is green 
in color, marked with wdiite and greenish gray 
stripes. The green is specially brilliant, and the 
effect is very fine. Although it is so hard that steel 
will not cut it, it is easily scratched in use, and is 
a soft stone, and can be readily cut on a common 
vulcanite emery wheel, and polished on a razor 
strop covered with rouge powder. It is fre- 
quently used for jewelry. Glass is easily filed in 

a lathe with a common file, but I do not know 
12 



134 MANUAL OF THE HAND LATHE. 

what any one should wish, to work glass for, as it 
is exceedingly dangerous from the splinters which 
fly from it, is quite friable and easily broken, and 
is, moreover, so common that no value attaches to 
it. Very pretty vases can be made out of ala- 
baster by turning them in the lathe. 



I I^ D E X . 



PAGE 

Acid in soldering 127 

African black-thorn 97 

Alabaster, Cutting 133 

Apple-Wood 85 

Arbors 74 

Artistic Wood-Turning 96 

Bamboo Pattern 63 

Bank-Bills, Work on 73 

Bastard Ebony 83 

Beach Chuck.! 94 

Bird's-eye Maple 84 

Bit for Turning 88 

Black Thorn 97 

Boiler for Toy Engine 53 

Boring 55 

Boxes, Joints of 123 

Box for Pins 62 

Boxwood 81 

Brushes for Varnishes 131 

Burnisher 126 

Buttons, Solitaire Sleeve 59 

Cam Wood 81 

Centers 65 

Chasers 33,35 

Chasing 33 

Chucking 42, 49 

Chucks, Geometrical 73 

Chucks, Wooden 43 

Clamps for Polishing 48 

Cocoa Wood 80 

Colored Woods 107 

Coloring Maple 132 

Curled Maple 84 

Curving Veneers 132 

Cushman's Scroll Chuck 42 

Cutting Alabaster 133 

Cutting Horn 133 

Cutting Jet 133 

Cutting Malachite 133 



PAGE 

Cutting Miscellaneous Materials... 133 

Cnttiiig, Ornamental 59 

Cutting Screws 33 

Designs for Inlaying 121 

Designs in Mosaic 106 

Diamond Point 21 

Doctor 37 

Drills, Twist 75 

Dyeing Ivory 118 

Ebony 82 

Elliptic Chuck 74 

Fancy Turning 71 

Finishing Outside 110 

Foot Lathe 13 

Foreign Woods 77 

General Summary 125 

Geometrical Chuck 73 

Gilding 127 

Glass Filing 133 

Globe, and Spur within 68 

Glueing in Veneers 115 

Good Tools necessary 20 

Granadilla 80 

Hand Lathes 19 

Heel Tools 27 

Height of Lathe 22 

Holding the Tool 23 

Hole Boring 55 

Holly, White 82 

Holtzapfel Lathe 38 

Holtzapfel, Work by 16 

Horn, Cutting 133 

Hubs 40 

Indigenous Woods.. 77 

Inlaying 97, IH 

Inlaying, Designs for 121 

135 



136 



INDEX. 



Inlaying Stamps 102 

Iron for Soldering 128 

Ivory 116 

Jet Cutting 133 

Joints of Boxes 123 

Lacquers , 126 

Lac Varnish 112 

Lathe, Foot 13 

Lathe, Height of. 22 

Lathe, Holtzapfel 38 

Lathe, Speedof 23 

Lathe, Uses of. 16 

Lathes, Hand 19 

Lanrel Root 82 

Leopard Wood 78 

Malachite, Cutting 133 

Mandrels 38, 74 

Maple, Bird's-eye 84 

Maple, Coloring 132 

Maple, Curled 84 

Metal Spinning 51 

Metals, Polishing 125 

Miscellaneous Tools 131 

Mosaic Designs 106 

Natural Colored Woods 107 

Novel Ornameut 68 

Oiled Wood 113 

Olive Wood 83 

Ornamental Cutting 59 

Ornamental Desig'is for Inlaying.. 121 

Ornamental Woods 77 

Ornamental Work 14 

Outside Finishing 110 

Parallel Holes, to hore 55 

Patterns 99 

Pearl 1.31 

Pear Wood 85 

Polishing 46, 129 

Polishing Metals 125 

Polishing Ivory 118 

Polygon and Spurs 69 

Rack for Tools 75 

Rest, Slide 57 

Best, The 24 

Rosewood 84 

Rosin Flux 127 

Rouge Powder 127 

Roughing off 24 

Sandal Wood 83 

Sawing, Scroll 123 



PARE 

Scrapers 30 

Screw Cutting: 33 

Screws, Tool fur Small 72 

Scroll Chuck 73 

Scroll Chuck, Cushman's 42 

Scroll Sawing 123 

Shellac Varnish ^ 112 

Silver-plating Fluid 127 

Sleeve Buttons, Solitaire .59 

Slide Rest 54, 57 

Snake Wood 78 

Soldering 127 

Soldering Iron 128 

Solitaire Sleeve Buttons 59 

Speed of Lathe '23 

Spinning Metals. 51 

Stamp Inlaying 102 

Steel Mandrels 75 

Straight Tools 27 

Tamarind 80 

Tempering Tools 92 

Tinning Soldering Iron 128 

Tool for Boring Holes 55 

Tool for Inlaying 114 

Tool for SmailScrews 72 

Tool Tempering 92 

Tools 22 

Tools, Holding 23 

Tools, Miscellaneous 131 

Tools for Wood Turning 90 

Traversing Mandrel 38 

Treatment of Woods 85 

Tulip Wood 79 

Tunbridge Ware Work 101 

Tuning, Fancy 71 

Turning, Wood 87 

Turning, Artistic Wood 96 

Turtle Wood 122 

Twist Drills 75 

Uses of the Lathe 16 

Varieties of Woods 77 

Varnishing HI, 129 

Veneers 104 

Veneers, Curving 132 

Veneers, Gluing in 115 

White Glue 123 

White Holly 82 

Wooden Chucks 43 

Wooden Mandrels 74 

Woods for Inlaying 107 

Woods, Ornamental 77 

Wood Turning 88 

Wood Turning, Artistic 96 

Work, Ornamental 14 



CATALOGUE 

CfP 

PEACTICAL Km SCIEIiTIFIC BOOKS, 

PUBLISHEO BY 

HENRY CAREY BAtRD, 

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, 

PHILADELPHIA. 



[^^ Any of the Books comprised in this Catalogue will be sent by mail 
free of postage, at the publication price. 

1^^ This Catalogue will be sent, free of postage, to any one who wil 
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A RMENGAITD, AMOUEOTJX, AND JOHNSOH.— THE PEACTICAL 
•^ DRAUGHTSMAN'S BOOK OF INDUSTSIAL DESIGN, AND 
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most useful and generally employed mechanism of the day. 
By William Johnson, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Editor of "The 
Practical Mechanic's Journal." Illustrated by 50 folio steel 
plates and 50 wood-cuts. A new edition, 4to. . $10 00 

A ESOWSMITH.— PAPES-HANGER'S COMPANION : 

A Treatise in which the Practical Operations of the Trade are 
Systematically laid down: with Copious Directions Prepara- 
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Walls; the Various Cements and Pastes adapted to the Seve- 
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the Panelling and Ornamenting of Rooms, &c. By James 
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IIENEY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 



■pAIRD.— THE AMERICAN COTTON SPINNER, AND MANA- 
^ GER'S AND CARDER'S GUIDE : 

A Practical Treatise on Cottou Spinning ; giving the Dimen- 
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•with Rules and Examples for making changes in the sizes and 
numbers of Roving and Yarn. Compiled from the papers of 
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•DAKER.— LONG-SPAN RAILWAY BRIDGES: 

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Systems of Construction; Tvith numerous Formulae and Ta- 
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■pAKEWELL.— A MANUAL OF EIECTRICITY— PRACTICAL AND 
^ THEORETICAL : 

By F. C. BAKEWELii, Inventor of the Copying Telegraph, Se- 
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•DEANS— A TREATISE ON RAILROAD CURVES AND THE LO- 
•^ CATION OF RAILROADS : 

By E. W. Beans, C. E. 12mo. (In press.) 

TDLENKARN.— PRACTICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF WORKS EXE- 
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ENGINEERING, AND IN ROAD MAKING AND SEWER- 
ING: 

To which are added a series of practically useful Agreements 
and Reports. By John Blenkarn. Illustrated by fifteen 
large folding plates, 8vo. . . . . . $9 00 

•pLINN.— A PRACTICAL WORKSHOP COMPANION FOR TIN, 
^ SHEET-IRON, AND COPPER-PLATE WORKERS : 

Containing Rules for Describing various kinds of Patterns 
used by Tin, Sheet-iron, and Copper- plate Workers ; Practical 
Geometry ; Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids ; Tables of the 
Weight of Metals, Lead Pipe, etc. ; Tables of Areas and Cir- 
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Compositions, etc. etc. By Lbrot J. Blinn, Master Me- 
chanic. With over One Hundred Illustrations. 12mo. $2 50 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 3 

TD DOTH.— MARBLE WORKER'S MANUAL : 

Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in gene- 
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Marble ; Mosaics; Composition and Use of Artificial Marble, 
Stuccos, Cements, Receipts, Secrets, etc. etc. Translated 
from the French by M, L. Booth. With an Appendix con- 
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■DOOTH AND MORFIT.— THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMISTRY, 
^ PRACTICAL AND THEORETICAL : 

Embracing its application to the Arts, Metallurgy, Mineralogy, 
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Melter and Refiner in the United States Mint, Professor of 
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pOWDITCH.— ANALYSIS, TECHNICAL VALUATION, PURIFI- 

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By Rev. W. R. Bowditch. Illustrated with wood engrav- 
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"DOX.— PRACTICAL HYDRAULICS : 

A Series of Piules and Tables for the use of Engineers, etc. 
By TnoMAS Box. 12mo. $2 00 

■nUCKMASTER.— THE ELEMENTS OF MECHANICAL PHYSICS : 
By J. C. BucKMASTER, late Student in the Government School 
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Science and Art ; Examiner in Chemistry and Physics in the 
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pULLOCK.— THE AMERICAN COTTAGE BUILDER : 

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HENRY CAKEY BATRB'S CATALOaTTl!. 



B 



■ffLLOCX. — THE aUDIMElTTS 0? AKCHITECTUSE AND 
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■pUaGH.— PHACTICAL ILLUSTEATIONS OF LAND AND MA- 

^ KINS ENGINES : 

Showing in detail the Modern Improvements of High and Low 
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•pUIlGH,— PEACTICAL RULES FOR THE PROPORTIONS OF 

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■pURGH.— THE SLIDE-VALVE PRACTICALLY CONSIDERED : 
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With numerous engravings. In one volume, 12mo. $1 50 



HENRY CAllEY BATRD'S CATALOGUE. 



■pYRNE.— POCKET BOOK FOB, RAILROAD AND CIVIL ENGl- 
■^ NEERS : 

Containing New, Exaot, and Concise Methods for Laying out 
Railroad Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings; the 
Staking out of work; Levelling; the Calculation of Cut- 
tings ; Embankments ; Earth-work, etc. By Oliver Btrne. 
Illustrated, I8ino., full bound . . . . . $1 50 

TDYRNE.— THE HANDBOOK FOR THE ARTISAN, MECHANIC, 

•" AND ENGINEER : 

By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by 11 large plates and 185 
Wood Engravings. 8vo. , . . . . . $5 GO 

■DYRNE.— THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS OF PRACTICAL ME- 
■^ CHANICS : 

For Engineering Students, based on the Principle of Work. 
By Oliver Byrne. Illustrated by Numerous Wood Engrav- 
ings, 12mo. . . . . . . . . $3 63 

■pYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL METAL-WORKER'S ASSISTANT : 
Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry ; the Arts of Working all 
Metals and Alloys ; Forging of Iron and Steel ; Hardening and 
Tempering ; Melting and Mixing ; Casting and Founding ; 
Works in Sheet Metal ; the Processes Dependent on the 
Ductility of the Metals ; Soldering ; and the most Improved 
Processes and Tools employed by Metal-Workers. With the 
Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to Manufactu- 
ring Processes ; collected from Original Sources, and from the 
AVorks of Holtzapflfel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plumier, Napier, and 
others. By Oliver Byrne. A New, Revised, and improved 
Edition, with Additions by John Scoffern, M. B , William Clay, 
Wm. Fairbairn, F. R. S., and James Napier. With Five Hun- 
dred and Ninety-two Engravings ; Illustrating every Branch 
of the Subject. In one volume, Bvo. 652 pages . $7 00 

■pYRNE.— THE PRACTICAL MODEL CALCULATOR: 

For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, 
Naval Architect, Miner, and Millwright. By Oliver Byrne. 
1 volume, 8vo., nearly 600 pages . . . . $4 50 

n.\BINET MAKER'S ALBUM OF FURNITURE: 

Comprising a Collection of Designs for the Newest and Most 
Elegant Styles of Furniture. Illustrated by Forty eight Largo 
and Beautifully Engraved Plates. In one volume, oblong 

$5 00 



IIEXKY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 



HALVEET.— LECTUEES 0¥ COAL-TAS C0L0S3, A2TD Oil EE- • 
^ CENT IMPSOVEIdENTS AND PEOGEESS III DYSINCr AND 
CALICO PEIKTING: 

Embodying Copious Notes taken at the last London Interna- 
tional Exhibition, and Illustrated with Numerous Patterns of 
Aniline and other Colors. By F. Gkace Calvert, F. R. S., 
F. C. S., Professor of Chemistry at the Royal Institution, Man- 
chester, Corresponding Member of the Pioyal Academies of 
Turin and Rouen; of the Pharmaceutical Society of Paris; 
Soci^te Industrielle de Mulhouse, etc. In one volume, 8vo., 
cloth .... . . . . . $1 50 

nAMPIH.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MECHANICAL EN- 
^ GINEEP.ING: ' 

Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, 
Workshop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture 
of Steam-engines, etc. etc. "With an Appendix on the Ana- 
lysis of Iron and Iron Oi-es. By Francis Campin, C. E. To 
"which are added. Observations on the Construction of Steam 
Boilers, and Remarks upon Furnaces used for Smoke Preven- 
tion ; -with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. Armstrong, C. E., 
and John Bourne. Rules for Calculating the Change Wheels 
for Screws on a Turning Lathe, and for a Wheel-cutting 
Machine. By J. La Nicca. Management of Steel, including 
Forging, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Shrinking, and 
Expansion. And the Case-hardening of Iron. By G. Ede. 
8vo. Illustrated with 29 plates and 100 wood engravings. 

^6 00 

nAI€?IN.-~TIIS PRACTICE OF HAND-TURNING IN WOOD, 

^ lYORY, SHELL, ETC. : 

With Instructions for Turning such works in Metal as may be 
required in the Practice of Turning AVood, Ivory, etc. Also, 
an Appendix on Ornamental Turning. By Francis Campin ; 
with Numerous Illustrations, 12mo., cloth . . $3 00 

ni\PEON DE DOLE— DUSSATJCE.— BLUES AND CARMINES OF 

^ INDIGO. 

A Practical Treatise on the Fabrication of every Commercial 
Product derived from Indigo. By Felicien Capron de Dole. 
Translated, with important additions, by Professor H. Dus- 
sauce. 12mo. . . . . . . . $2 <J0 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 



nAREY.— THE WORKS OF HENRY C. CAREY : 

CONTRACTION OR EXPANSION? REPUDIATION OR RE- 
SUMPTION? Letters to Hon. Hugh McCulloch. 8vo. 38 

FINANCIAL CRISES, their Causes and Effects. 8vo. paper 

25 

HARMONY OF INTERESTS; Agricultural, Manufacturing, 

and Commercial. 8vo., paper . . . . . $1 00 

Do. do. cloth . . . $1 50 

LETTERS TO THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES. 
Paper $1 00 

MANUAL OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. Condensed from Carey's 
"Principles of Social Science." By Kate McKean. 1 vol. 
12mo ^2 25 

MISCELLANEOUS WORKS: comprising "Harmony of Inter- 
ests," "Money," "Letters to the President," "French and 
American Tariffs," "Financial Crises," "The Way to Outdo 
England Trithout Fighting Her," "Resources of the Union," 
"The Public Debt," "Contraction or Expansion," "Review 
of the Decade 1857 — 'G7," "Reconstruction," etc. etc. 1 vol. 
8vo., cloth $4 50 

MONEY: A LECTURE before the N. Y. Geographical and Sta- 
tistical Society. 8vo., paper ..... 25 

PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. 8vo. . . . $2 50 

PRINCIPLES OF SOCIAL SCIENCE. 3 volumes 8vo., cloth 

$10 00 

REVIEW OF THE DECADE 1857— '67. 8vo., paper 38 

RECONSTRUCTION: INDUSTRIAL, FINANCIAL, AND PO- 
LITICAL. Letters to the Hon. Henry Wilson, U. S. S. 8vo. 
paper ....'.. . . 38 

THE PUBLIC DEBT, LOCAL AND NATIONAL. How to 
provide for its discharge while lessening the burden of Taxa- 
tion. Letter to David A. Wells, Esq., U. S. Revenue Commis- 
sion. 8vo., paper ....... 25 

THE RESOURCES OF THE UNION. A Lecture read, Dec. 
1865, before the American Geographical and Statistical So- 
ciety, N. Y., and before the American Association for the Ad- 
vancement of Social Science, Boston . . . 25 

THE SLAVE TRADE, DOMESTIC AND FOREIGN; Why it 
Exists, and How it may be Extinguished. 12mo., cloth $150 



8 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 

THE WAY TO OUTDO ENGLAND WITHOUT FIGHTING 
HER. Letters to the Hon. Schuyler Colfax. 8vo., paper 75 

riAMUS.— A TEEATISS ON THE TEETH OF WHEELS: 

Demonstrating the best forms which can be given to them for the 
purposes of Machinery, such as Mill-work .and Clo'-.k-work. Trans- 
Lited from the French of M. Camus. By Jchn I. Hawkins. 
Illustrated by 40 plates. 8vo. $3 00 

niQUGH.— THE CONTEACTOE'S MANUAL AND BUILDER'S 
^ PRICE-BOOK : 

Designed to elucidate the method of ascertaining, correctly, 
the value and Quantity of every description of Work and Ma- 
terials used in the Art of Building, from their Prime Cost in 
any part of the United States, collected from extensive expe- 
rience and observation in Building and Designing; to which 
are added a large variety of Tables, Memoranda, etc., indis- 
pensable to all engaged or concerned in erecting buildings of 
any kind. By A. B. Clough, Architect, 24mo., cloth 75 

nOLBURN.— THE GAS-WORKS OF LONDON: 

Comprising a sketch of the Gas-works of the city, Process of 
Manufacture, Quantity Produced, Cost, Profit, etc. By Zerah 
CoLBURN. 8vo., cloth 75 

nOLBURN.— THE LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE: 

Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimat- 
ing its Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construc- 
tion and Management. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. A 
new edition. 12mo. $1 25 

nOLBURN AND MAW.— THE WATER-V/ORKS OF LONDON : 
Together with a Series of Articles on various otiier Water- 
works. By Zerah Colbwrn and W. Maw. Reprinted from 
"Engineering." In one volume, 8vo. . . $1 00 

■HAGUERREOTYPIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER'S COMPANION: 

^ 12mo., cloth $1 25 

TJUPLAIS,— A COMPLETE TREATISE ON" THE DISTILLATION 
^ AND PREPARATION OF ALCOHOLIC AND OTHER LIQ- 

UORS: 

From the French of M. Duplais. Translated and Edited by M. 

McKennie, M. D, Illustrated, 8vo. {I/t. jiress-) 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 



■HESSOYE— STEEL, ITS MANUFACTURE, PSOPEETISS, AKD 

■*-' USE. 

By J. B'. J. Dessote, Manufacturer of Steel; •with an Intro- 
duction and Notes by Ed. Graten, Engineer of Mines. 
Translated from the French. In one volume, 12mo. (In press.) 

■niKCKS.— PEKPETUAL MOTION : 

Or Search for Self-Motive Power during the 17th, 18th, and 
19th centuries. Illustrated from various authentic sources in 
Papers, Essays, Letters, Paragraphs, and numerous Patent 
Specifications, with an Introductory Essay by Henry Dircks, 
C. E. Illustrated by numerous engravings of machines. 
12mo., cloth ^3 50 

■niXON.— THE PSACTICAL MILLWRIGHT'S AND ENGINEER'S 
■^ GUIDE : 

Or Tables for Finding the Diameter and Power of Cogwheels ; 
Diameter, Weight, and Power of Shafts ; Diameter and Strength 
of Bolts, etc. etc. By Thobias Dixon. 12mo., cloth. $1 50 

■nUNC AN.— PRACTICAL SURVEYOR'S GUIDE: 

Containing the necessary information to make any person, of 
common capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of 
a teacher. By Andrew Duncan. Illustrated. 12mo., cloth. 

$1 25 
•nUSSAUCE.— A NEW AND COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE 
■^ ARTS OF TANNING, CURRYING, AND LEATHER DRESS- 
ING : 

Comprising all the Discoveries and Improvements made in 
France, Great Britain, and the United States. Edited from 
Notes and Documents of Messrs. Sallerou, Grouvelle, Duval, 
Dessables, Labarraque, Payen, Ren6, De Fontenelle, Mala- 
peyre, etc. etc. By Prof. H. Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated 
by 212 wood engravings. 8vo $10 00 

TJUSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE 
•'-' OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF SOAP : 

Comprising the Chemistry of the Art, with Remarks on Alka- 
lies, Saponifiable Fatty Bodies, the apparatus necessary in a 
Soap Factory, Practical Instructions on the manufacture of 
the various kinds of Soap, the assay of Soaps, etc. etc. Edited 
from notes of Larme, Fontenelle, Malapeyre, Dufour, and 
others, with large and important additions by Professor H. 

Dussauce, Chemist. Illustrated. In one volume, Svo. 

$10 Oli 



10 HE^^RY CARET BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 

"nUSSAUCE.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOE THE PERFUMER : 

Being a New Treatise on Perfumery the most favorable to the 
Beauty without being injurious to the Health, comprising a 
Description of the substances used in Perfumery, the Form- 
ula of more than one thousand Preparations, such as Cosme- 
tics, Perfumed Oils, Tooth Powders, Waters, Extracts, Tinc- 
tures, Infusions, Vinaigres, Essential Oils, Pastels, Creams, 
Soaps, and many new Hygienic Products not hitherto described. 
Edited from Notes and Documents of Messrs. Debay, Lunel, 
etc. Withadditions by Professor H. DussArcE, Chemist. 12mo. 
press, shortly to be issued.) $3 00 

•nUSSAUCE.— PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE FABRICATION 
•^ OF MATCHES, GUN COTTON, AND FULMINATING POW- 
DERS. 

By Professor H. Dussauce. 12mo. . . . $3 00 

•nUSSAUCE.— A GENERAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE 
■^ OF VINEGAR, THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL. 

•Comprising the various methods, by the slow and the quick pro- 
cesses, with Alcohol, Wine, Grain, Cider, and Molasses, as well 
as the Fabrication of Wood Vinegar, etc. By Prof. H. Dossauce. 
i2mo. (In press.) 



D 



E GRAFF. -THE GEOMETRICAL STAIR-BUILDERS' GUIDE : 
Being a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all 
its necessary Details, and Geometrically Illustrated by 22 Steel 
Engravings : together with the use of the most approved princi- 
ples of Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. 
4to. $5 00 

■HYER Ai^D COLOS-MAXER'S COMPANION : 

Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Co- 
lors, on the most approved principles, for all the various styles 
and fabrics now in existence ; with the Scouring Process, and 
plain Directions for Preparing, Washing-oflF, and Finishing the 
Goods. In one vol. 12mo $1 25 

pASTON.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON STREET OR HORSE- 

•'-' POWER RAILWAYS : 

Their Location, Construction, and Management ; with General 
Plans and Rules for their Organization and Operation ; toge- 
ther with Examinations as to their Comparative Advantages 
over the Omnibus System, and Inquiries as to their Value for 
Investment ; including Copies of Municipal Ordinances relat- 
ing thereto. By Alexander Easton, C. E. Illustrated by 23 
plates, 8vo., cloth . . . . . , . $2 00 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 11 



pOESYTH.— BOOK OF DSSIGNS FOR HEAD-STONES, MURAL, 
*■ AND OTHER MONUMENTS : 

Containing 78 Elaborate and Exquisite Designs. By Foksyth. 

4to. (Inpress) 

pAIRBAIRN.— THE PRINCIPLES OF MECHANISM AND MA- 

^ CHINERY OF TRANSMISSION : 

Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, Wheels, and Pulleys, 
Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Couplings of Shafts, and 
Engaging and Disengaging Gear. By William Fairbaikn, 
Esq., C. E., LL. D., F. R. S., F. G. S., Corresponding Member 
of the National Institute of France, and of the Royal Academy 
of Turin ; Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, etc. etc. Beau- 
tifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one Tolume*12mo. 

$2 50 

pAIRBAIRN.— PRIME-MOVERS : 

Comprising the Accumulation of Water-power; the Construc- 
tion of Water-wheels and Turbines ; the Properties of Steam ; 
the Varieties of Steam-engines and Boilers and Wind-mills. 
By William Faireairn, C. E , LL. U., F. R. S., F. G. S. Au- 
thor of "Principles of Mechanism and the Machinery of Trans- 
mission." With Numerous Illustratiofas. In one volume. (In 
press.) 

pLAMM.— A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF 
^ ECONOMICAL HEATING APPLICATIONS FOR SOLID AND 
GASEOUS FUELS : 

With the Application of Concentrated Heat, and on Waste 
Heat, for the Use of Engineers, Architects, Stove and Furnace 
Makers, Manufacturers of Fire Brick, Zinc, Porcelain, Glass, 
Earthenware, Steel, Chemical Products,' Sugar Refiners, Me- 
tallurgists, and all others employing Heat. By M. Pierre 
Flamm, Manufacturer. Illustrated. Translated from the 
French. One volume, 12mo. (In press.) 

niLBART.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON BANKING: 

By James William Gilbart. To which is added: The Na- 
tional Bank Act as now (1868) in force. 8vo. $4 50 



12 HENET CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 

n OTHIC ALBUM FOE CABINET MAKERS : 

Comprising a Collection of Designs for Gothic Furniture. Il- 
lustrated by twenty-three large and beautifully engraved 
plates. Oblong $3 00 



G 



G 



EANT.— BEET-ROOT SUGAR AND CULTIVATION OF THE 
BEET: 
By E. B. Grant. 12mo §1 25 

mEGORY.— MATHEMATICS FOR PRACTICAL MEN : 

Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, 
and Civil Engineers. By Olinthus Gregory. 8vo., plates, 
cloth ^3 00 

RISWOLD.— RAILROAD ENGINEER'S POCKET COMPANION. 

Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and 
Angles, Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary 
Tables for Engineers ; also the art of Levelling from Prelimi- 
nary Survey to the Construction of Railroads, intended Ex- 
pressly for the Young Engineer, together with Numerous Valu- 
able Rules and Examples. By W. Griswold. 12mo., tucks. 

$1 50 

pUETTIER.— METALLIC ALLOYS: 

Being a Practical Guide to their Chemical and Physical Pro- 
perties, their Preparation, Composition, and Uses. Translated 
from the French of A. Guettiee, Engineer and Director of 
Founderies, author of " La Fouderie en France," etc. etc. By 
A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In one volume, 12mo. 
(In press, shortly to be published.) 

TTATS AND FELTING: 

A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical 
Hatter. Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, &c., 8vo. 

•jTAY.— THE INTERIOR DECORATOR : 

The Laws of Harmonious Coloring adapted to Interior Decora- 
tions : with a Practical Treatise on House-Painting. By D. 
R. Hay, House-Painter and Decorator. Illustrated by a Dia- 
gram of the Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary Colors. 12mo. 

$2 25 

TTUGHES.— AMERICAN MILLER AND MILLWRIGHT'S AS- 

^ SISTANT : 

By Wm. Carter Hughes. A new edition. In one volume, 
12mo. .... . . . . I$i &U 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 13 

ITUNT.— THE PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. 

By Robert Hunt, Vice-President of the Photographic Society, 
London, with numerous illustrations. 12mo., cloth . 75 

TTTTRST.— A HAND-BOOK FOR ARCHITECTURAL SURVEYORS : 

Comprising Formulas useful in Designing Builder's work, Table 
of Weights, of the materials used in Building, Memoranda 
connected with Builders' work. Mensuration, the Practice of 
Builders' Measurement, Contracts of Labor, Valuation of Pro- 
perty, Summary of the Practice in Dilapidation, etc. etc. By 
J. F. Hurst, C. E. 2d edition, pocket-book form, full bound 

$2 50 
TERVIS.— RAILWAY PROPERTY : 

A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways ; 
designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the 
holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Mana- 
gers, Officers, and Agents. By John B. Jervis, late Chief 
Engineer of the Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, &c. 
One vol. 12mo., cloth $2 00 

JOHNSON.— A REPORT TO THE NAVY DEPARTMENT OF THE 

" UNITED STATES ON AMERICAN COALS : 

Applicable to Steam Navigation and to other purposes. By 
Walter R. Johnson. With numerous illustrations. 607 pp. 
8 vo., half morocco f 6 00 

TOHNSOK.— THE COAL TRADE OF BRITISH AMERICA : 

With Researches on the Characters and Practical Values of 
American and Foreign Coals. By Walter R. Johnson, Civil 
and Mining Engineer and Chemist. 8vo. . . . $2 00 

JOHNSTON.— INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ANALYSIS OF SOILS, 
" LIMESTONES, AND MANURES. 

By J. W. F. Johnston. 12mo 38 

TT-EENE.—A HAND-BOOK OF PRACTICAL GAUGING, 

For the Use of Beginners, to which is added A Chapter on Dis- 
tillation, describing the process in operation at the Custom 
House for ascertaining the strength of wines. By James B. 
Keene, of H. M. Customs. 8vo. . . . ■ . $1 25 

jT-ENTISH,- A TREATISE ON A BOX OF INSTRUMENTS, 

And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Lo- 
garithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measur- 
ing of Timber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. 
By Thomas Kentish. In one volume. 12mo. . $1 25 



14 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 



irOBELL.—EKl^I,— MINERALOGY SIMPLIFIED : 

A short method of Determining and Classifying Minerals, by 
means of simple Chemical Experiments in the Wet Way. 
Translated from the last German Edition of F. Von Kobell, 
with an Introduction to Blowpipe Analysis and other addi- 
tions. By Henei Ernt, M. D., Chief Chemist, Department of 
Agriculture, author of " Coal Oil and Petroleum." In one 
volume, 12mo. $2 50 

T AFFIITETIIl — A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO HYDRAULICS FOR 
•^ TOWN AND COUNTRY; 

Or a Complete Treatise on the Building of Conduits for Water 
for Cities, Towns, Farms, Country Residences, Workshops, etc. 
Comprising the means necessary for obtaining at all times 
abundant supplies of Drinkable Water. Translated from 
the French of M. Jules Laffineur, C. E. Illustrated. (In 
press.) 

T AFFINEUR.— A TREATISE ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF WA- 
■'-' TER- WHEELS : 

Containing the various Systems in use with Practical Informa- 
tion on the Dimensions necessary for Shafts, Journals, Arms, 
etc., of Water-wheels, etc. etc. Translated from the French 
of M. Jules Laffineuk, C. E. Illustrated by numerous 
plates. (In press.) 

T ANDRIN.— A TREATISE ON STEEL: 

Comprising the Theory, Metallurgy, Practical Working, Pro- 
perties, and Use. Translated from the French of H. C. Lan- 
DRiN, Jr., C. E. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. 
Illustrated. 12mo. $3 OO 

T ARKIN.— THE PRACTICAL BRASS AND IRON FOUNDER'S 
■^ GUIDE : 

A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metala 
and their Alloys, etc. ; to which are added Recent Improve- 
ments in the Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Pro- 
cess, etc. etc. By James Laekin, late Conductor of the Brass 
Foundry Department in Reany, Neafie & Co.'s Penn Works, 
Philadelphia. Fifth edition, revised, with Extensive addi- 
tions. In one volume, 12mo. ..... . . $2 25 



HENRY CAREY BATRD'S CATALOGUE. 15 

T EAVITT.— FACTS ABOUT PEAT AS AN AETICLE OF FUELi 

V/ith Remarks upon its Origin and Composition, the Localities 
m -which it is found, the Methods of Preparation and Manu- 
facture, and the various Uses to which it is applicable ; toge- 
ther with many other matters of Practical and Scientific Inte- 
rest. To which is added a chapter on the Utilization of Coal 
Dust with Peat for the Production of an Excellent Fuel at 
Moderate Cost, especially adapted for Steam Service. By H. 
T. Leavitt. Third edition. 12mo. . . . $1 75 

TEaOUX— A PRACTICAL TEEATI3E QUI THE MANUFAC- 

^ TURK OF WJjJSIEDd AisD CA.iiDED YAEFS : 

Translated from the French of Charles Leuoux, Mechanical 
Engineer, and Superintendent of a Spinning Mill. By Dr, H. 
Paine, and A. A. Fesqdet. Illustrated by 12 hirge plates . In 
one volume 8vo. . . . . . . . . $5 00 

TESLIE (MISS).— COMPLETE COOKERY: 

Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss 
Leslie. 58th thousand. Thoroughly revised, with the addi- 
tion of New Receipts. In 1 vol. 12mo., cloth . , $1 25 

T ESLIE (MISS). LADIES' HOUSE BOOK : 

a Manual of Domestic Economy. 20th revised edition. 12mo., 
cloth $1 25 

TESLIE (MISS).— TWO HUNDRED RECEIPTS IN FRENCH 
•^ COOKERY. 

12mo 50 

T lEBER.— ASSAYER'S GUIDE : 

Or, Practical. Directions to Assayers, Mir.ers, and Smelters, for 
the Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the 
Ores of all the principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and 
Alloys, and of Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lieber. 12mo., cloth 

$1 25 

T OVE.— THE ART OF DYEING, CLEANING, SCOURING, AND 

•^ FINISHING : 

On the most approved English and French methods; being 
Practical Instructions in Dyeing Silks, Woollens, and Cottons, 
Feathers, Chips, Straw, etc.; Scouring and Cleaning Bed and 
Window Curtains, Carpets, Rugs, etc.; French and Eng-lish 
Cleaning, etc. By Thomas Love. Second American EJition, to 
which are added General Instructions for the Use of Aniline 
Colors. 8vo 5 »0 



16 HENRY CAHEY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 

•lyrnN and brdw.^.— questions on subjects connected 

iV-l- with the marine STEAM-ENGINE : 

And Examinatioa Papers ; with Hints for their Solution. By 
Thomas J. Main, Professor of Mathematics, Iloyal Naval Col- 
lege, and TuoMAS Brown, Chief Engineer, R. N. 12mo., cloth 

$1 50 

-jyTAIN ANDBEOWN— THE INDICATOR AND DYNAMOMETER; 
With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By 
Thomas J. Main, M. A. F. R., Ass't Prof. Royal Naval College, 
Portsmouth, and Thomas Bkown, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief En- 
gineer, R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated. 
From the Fourth London Edition. 8vo. . . . $1 50 

TUTAIN AND BROWN— THE MARINE STEAM-ENGINE. 
■"■^ By Thomas J. Main, F. R. Ass't S. Mathematical Professor at 
Pioyal Naval College, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. lust. C. E. 
Chief Engineer, R. N. Attached to the Royal Naval College. 
/#athors of " Questions connected with the Marine Steam-En- 
gine," and the "Indicator and Dynamometer." With nume- 
rous Illustrations. In one volume, 8vo. . . . $5 00 
MORTIMER.— THE PYROTECHNIST'S COMPANION: 
Or, a Familictr System of Recreative Fireworks. By G. W. 
MoRTiMEK. Illustrated ]2mo. . . . • . $1 25 

Contents. — Introduction. Of Gunpowder, Materials, Appara- 
tus, Division of Fireworks, Single Fireworks, Rockets, Tables of 
Various Compositions, Compound Fireworks. 

MARTIN — SCEEW-CUTTING TABLES, FOR THE USE OF ME- 
CHANICAL ENGINEERS : 

Showing the Proper Arrangement of Wheels for Cutting the 
Threads of Screws of any required Pitch ; with a Table for 
Making the Universal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A. 
Martin, Engineer. 8vo. 50 

MILES.— A PLAIN TREATISE ON HORSE-SHOEING. 
With illustrations. By William Miles, author of "The 
Horse's Foot," $1 00 

M3LESW0RTH. POCKET-BOOK OF USEFUL FORMULA AND 
MEMORANDA FOR CIVIL AND MECHANICAL ENGI- 
NEERS. 

By Guilford L. Molesworth, Member of the Institution of 
Civil Engineers, Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Rail- 
way. Second American, from the Tenth London Edition. In 
one volume, full bound in pocket-book form . . $2 00 



HENRY CAr.EY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 17 



M 



Don's.— THE INVENTOR'S GUIDE: 

Patent Office and Patent Laws ; or, a Guide to Inventors, and 
a Book of Reference for Judges, Lawyers, Magistrates, and 
others. By J. G. Moore. 12mo., cloth . . $1 25 

lyjAPIER.— A SYSTEM OF CHEMISTRY APPLIED TO DYEING: 

^ By James Napier, F. C S. A New and Thoroughly Revised 
Edition, completely brought up to the present state of the 
Science, including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors. By A. A. 
Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendi.x; on Dyeing 
and Calico Printing, as shown at the Paris Universal Exposition 
of 1867, from the Reports of the International Jury, etc Illus- 
trated. In one volume 8vo., 400 pages . . . . $5 06 

TO-APIER.— A MANUAL OF DYEING RECEIPTS FOR GENERAL 

^^ USE. 

By J.\MES Napier, F. C S. Wlih Numerous Tatterns of Diied 
Cloth and Silk. Second edition, revised and enlarged. 12 mo. 

$) 75 

|n"APIER.— MANUAL OF ELECTRO-METALLURGY: 

Including the Application of the Art to Manufacturing Pro- 
cesses. By James Napiek. Fourth American, from the 
Fourth London edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated by 
engravings. In one volume, 8vo. . . . . $2 00 

■VTEWBERY. — GLEANINGS FROM ORNAMENTAL ART OF 

•^^ EVERY STYLE; 

Drawu from Examples in the British, South Kensington, In- 
dian, Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of 
1851 and 1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In 
a series of one hundred exquisitely drawn Plates, containing 
many hundred examples. By Robert Newbert. 4to. $15 00 

"VriCHOLSON.— .\ MANUAL OF THE ART OF BOOK-BINDING : 

Containing full instructions in the different Branches of For- 
warding, Gilding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling 
Book-edges and Paper. By James B. Nicholson. Illus- 
trated. 12mo., cloth $2 25 

■jyJORRIS.— A HAND-BOOKFOR LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERS AND 
■^^ MACHINISTS : 

Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing 
Locomotives ; Manner of Setting Valves ; Tables of Squares, 
Cubes, Areas, etc. etc. By Septimus Norris, Civil and Me- 
chanical Engineer. New edition. Illustrated, 12mo., cloth 

$1 00 



IR HENRY CAKEY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 



W 







YSTEOM. — ON TECHNOLOGICAL EDUCATION AND THE 
CONSTKUCTION OF SHIPS AND SCSEW PHOPELLERS : 

For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John W. Nystrom, lato 
Acting Chief Engineer U. S. N. Second edition, revised with 
additional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. 12mo. 

$2 50 
NEILL.— A DICTIONARY OF DYEING AND CALICO PRINT- 
ING; 

Containing a brief account of all the Substances and Processes in 
use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics : with Prac- 
tical Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles O'Neill, 
Analytical Chemist ; Fellow of the Chemical Society of London ; 
Member of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester ; 
Author of "Chemistry of Calico Printing and Dyeing." To which 
is added An Essay on CoalTar Colors and their Application to 
Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and 
Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and Calico Printing, an 
shown at the Exposition of 1867, from the Reports of the Inter- 
nationalJury, etc. In one volume 8vo., 491 pages. . $6 00 

QVSRMAN— OSBOEN.— TEE MANUFACTURE OF IRON IN ALL 

^ ITS BRANCHES : 

Including a Practical Description of the various Fuels and 
their Values, the Nature, Determination and Preparation of 
the Ore, the Erection and Management of Blast and other Fur- 
naces, the characteristic results of Worliing by Charcoal, 
Coke, or Anthracite, the Conversion of the Crude into the va- 
rious kinds of Wrought Iron, and the Methods adapted to this 
end. Also, a Description of Forge Hammers, Rolling Mills, 
Blast Engines, &c. &c. To which is added an Essay on the 
Manufacture of Steel. By Frederick Overman, Mining En- 
gineer. The whole thoroughly revised and enlarged, adapted 
to the latest Improvements and Discoveries, and the particular 
type of American Methods of Manufacture. With various 
new engravings illustrating the whole subject. By H. S. Os- 
BORN, LL. D. Professor of Mining and Metallurgy in Lafay- 
ette College. In one volume, 8vo. $10 00 

piINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER'S COMPANION : 

Containing Rules and Regulations in everything relating to 
the Arts of Painting, Gilding, Varnishing, and Glass Staining, 
with numerous useful and valuable Receipts; Tests for the 
Detection of Adulterations in Oils and Colors, and a statement 
of the Diseases and Accidents to which Painters, Gilders, and 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 19 

Varnishers are particularly liable, with the simplest methods 
of Prevention and Remedy. With Directions for Graining. 
Marbling, Sign Writing, and Gilding on Glass. To which are 
added Complete Instructions for Coach Painting and Var- 
nishing. 12mo., cloth . . ... $1 50 

pALLETT.— THE MILLER'S, MILLWRIGHT'S, AND ENGI- 
■^ NEER'S GUIDE. 

By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. In one vol. 12mo. $8 00 
pSRKINS.— GAS AND VENTILATION. 

Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. With Special Re- 
lation to Illuminating, Heating, and Cooking by Gas. Includ- 
ing Scientific Helps to Engineer-students and others. With 
illustrated Diagrams. By E. E. Perkins. 12mo., cloth $1 25 

pERKINS AND STOWE.— A NEW GUIDE TO THE SEEET- 
•^ IRON AND BOILER PLATE ROLLER : 

Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and 
Piles to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and 
the Sizes of Bars to produce Sheet-iron; the Thickness of the 
Bar Gauge in Decimals ; the Weight per foot, and the Thick- 
ness on the Bar or Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an 
inch; the Weight per sheet, and the Thickness on the Wii-e 
Gauge of Sheet- iron of various dimensions to weigh 112 lbs. 
per bundle ; and the conversion of Short Weight into Long 
Weight, and Long Weight into Short. Estimated and collected 
by G. H. Perkins and J. G. Stowe . . , . $2 50 

p:iILLIPS AND DARLINGTON— RECORDS OF MINING AND 

^ METALLURGY : 

Or Facts and Memoranda for the use of the Mine Agent and 
Smelter. By J. Arthor Phillips, Mining Engineer, Graduate 
of the Imperial School of Mines, France, etc., and John Dar- 
lington. Illustrated by numerous engravings. In one vol- 
ume, 12mo $2 00 

pSADAL, MALEPEYRE, AND DUSSAUCE. — A COMPLETE 

^ TREATISE ON PERFUMERY : 

Containing notices of the Raw Material used in the Art, and the 
Best Formulte. According to the most approved Methods fol- 
lowed in France, England, and the United States. By M. 
P, Pradal, Perfumer Chemist, and M. F. Malepeyrb. Trans- 
lated from the French, with extensive additions, by Professor 
IT. DussAUCE. 8vo . $10 00 



20 HENRY CAE.EY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 

pHOTEAUX— PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE MANUFACTURE 
^ OF PAPER AND BOARDS. 

By A. Proteaux, Civil Engineei", and Graduate of the School 
of Arts and A[anufactures, Director of Thiers's Paper Mill, 
'Puy-de-D6me. With additions, by L. S. Le Normand. 
Translated from the French, with Notes, by Horatio Paine, 
A. B., M. D. To which is added a Chapter on the Manufac- 
ture of Paper from Wood in the United States, by Henry T. 
Brown, of the "American Artisan." Illustrated by six plates, 
containing Drawings of Raw Materials, Machinery, Plans of 
Paper-Mills, etc. etc. 8vo $5 00 

•DEGNAULT.— ELEMENTS OF CHEMISTRY. 

By M. V. Regnault. Translated from the French by T. 
Forrest Betton, jM.D., and edited, with notes, by James C. 
Booth, Melter and Refiner U. S. Mint, and Wm. L. Faber, 
Metallurgist and Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 
wood engravings. Comprising nearly 1500 pages. In two 
volumes, 8vo., cloth $10 00 

TJEID.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE MANUFACTURE O? 

•^ PORTLAND CEMENT; 

By IIenrv Reid, C. E. To which is added a Translation of M. 
A Lipiwitz's Work, describing a new method adopted in Germany 
of Manufacturing that Cement. By W. F. Reid. Illustrated by 
plates and wood engravings. 8vo $7 00 

OHUNK— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON RAILWAY CURVES 
'^ -AND LOCATION, FOR YOUNG ENGINEERS. 

By Wm. F. Shunk, Civil Engineer. 12mo. . . $1 50 

OMEATON— BUILDER'S POCKET COMPANION: 

Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Archi- 
tecture ; with Practical Rules and Instructions connected with 
the subject. By A. C. Sjieaton, Civil Engineer, etc. In 
one volume, 12mo $1 50 

OMITH— THE DYER'S INSTRUCTOR: 

Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, 
Cotton, Wool, and Worsted, and Woollen Goods: containing 
nearly 800 Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art 
of Padding ; and the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeids, and 
Handkerchiefs, and the various Mordants and Colors for the 
different styles of such work. By David Smith, Pattern 
Dyer. 12mo., cloth. $3 00 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 21 

OMITH.— PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS : 

Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public 
Parks, and Gardens. By Charles H. J. Smith, Landscape 
Gardener and Garden Architect, etc. etc. 12mo. . $2 25 

OTOKES.— CABINET-MAKER'S AND UPHOLSTERER'S COMPA- 
*^ NION : 

Comprising the Rudiments and Principles of Cabinet-making 
and Upholstery, with Familiar Instructions, Illustrated by Ex- 
amples for attaining a Proficiency in the Art of Drawing, as 
applicable to Cabinet-work ; The Processes of Veneering, In- 
laying, and Buhl-work ; the Art of Dyeing and Staining Wood, 
Bone, Tortoise Shell, etc. Directions for Lackering, Japan- 
ning, and Varnishing ; to make French Polish ; to prepare the 
Best Glues, Cements, and Compositions, and a number of Re- 
ceipts particularly for workmen generally. By J. Stokes. In 
one vol. 12mo. With illustrations . . . . $1 25 

STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS. 

Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Proper- 
ties of Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines 
for Testing Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in ser- 
vice. By Officers of the Ordnance Department U. S. Army 
By authority of the Secretary of War. Illustrated by 25 large 
steel plates. In 1 vol. quarto $10 00 

rjiABLES SHOWING THE WEIGHT OF ROUND, SQUARE, AND 
•*• FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC., 

By Measurement. Cloth 63 

mAYLOR,— STATISTICS OF COAL : 

Including Mineral Bituminous Substances employed in Arts 
and Manufactures; with their Geographical, Geological, and 
Commercial Distribution and amount of Production and Con- 
sumption on the American Continent. With Incidental Sta- 
tistics of the Iron Manufacture. By R. C. Taylok. Second 
edition, revised by S. S. Haldeman. Illustrated by five Maps 
and many wood engravings. 8vo., cloth . . . $6 00 

rpEMPLETON.— THE PRACTICAL EXAMINATOR ON STEAM 

•^ AND THE STEAM-ENGINE : 

With Instructive References relative thereto, for the Use of 
Engineers, Students, and others. By Wm. Templeton, Engi- 
neer. 12mo $1 25 



22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 

rjiHOMAS.— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF PHOTOGRAPHY. 

By R. W. Thomas, F. C. S. 8vo., cloth ... 75 

rpHOMSON.— FREIGHT CHARGES CALCULATOR. 

By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent . . . $1 25 

rpURUBULL.— THE ELECTRO-MAGNETIC TELEGRAPH : 

With an Historical. Account of its Rise, Progress, and Present 
Condition. Also, Practical Suggestions in regard to Insula- 
tion and Protection from the effects of Lightning. Together 
"with an Appendix, containing several important Telegraphic 
Devices and Laws. By Lawrence Tnrneull, M. D., Lectu- 
rer on Technical Chemistry at the Franklin Institute. Revised 
and improved. Illustrated. 8vo. . . . $3 00 

npjRNER'S (THE) COMPANION: 

Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic, and Eccentric 
Turning; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instru- 
ments ; and Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill, 
Vertical Cutter, and Circular Rest; with Patterns and Instruc- 
tions for working them. A new edition in one vol. 12mo. 

$1 50 

TTLSICH— DTISSAUCE.— A COMPLETE TREATISE ON THE ART 

^ OF DYEING COTTON AND WOOL: 

As practised in Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, and Germany. 
From the French of M. Louis Ulrich, a Practical Dyer in 
the principal Manufactories of Paris, Rouen, Mulhausen, etc. 
etc. ; to which are added the most important Receipts for Dye- 
ing Wool, as practised in the Manufacture Imperials des Go- 
belins, Paris. By Professor H. Dtjesauoe. 12mo. $3 50 

TTRBIN— BRTJLL. — A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR PUDDLING 

^ IRON Al^D STEEL. 

By Ed. Urbin, Engineer of Arts and Manufactures. A Prize 
Essay read before the Association of Engineers, Graduate of 
the School of Mines, of Liege, Belgium, at the Meeting of 
]865 — 6. To which is added a Comparison of the Resisting 
Properties of Iron and Steel. By A. Brull. Translated 
from the French by A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. In 
oae volume, Bvo. . $1 00 

WATSON.— A MANUAL OF THE HAND-LATHE. 

By Egbert P. Watson, Late of the "Scientific American," 
Author of "Modern Practice of American Machinists and 
Engineers." In one volume, 12mo. $1 50 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE. 23 



WATSON— THE MODERN PRACTICE OF AMERICAN MA- 
''' CHINISTS AND ENGINEERS : 

Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, 
Lathe Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow Work 
Generally, with the most Economical Speed of the same, the 
Results verified by Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vice, and 
on the Floor. Together with Workshop management. Economy 
of Manufacture, the Steam-Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc. 
etc. By Egbert P. Watson, late of the " Scientific American." 
Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. 12mo. . . $2 50 

WATSON.— THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF THE ART OF 
'''' WEAVING BY HAND AND POWER: 

With Calculations and Tables for the iise of those connected 
with the Trade. By John Watson, Manufacturer and Prac- 
tical Machine Maker. Illustrated by large drawings of the 
best Power-Looms. 8vo. $10 00 

WE ATHERLY.— TREATISE ON THE ART OF BOILING STJ- 
'''' GAR, CRYSTALLIZING, LOZENGE-MAKING, COMFITS, 
GUM GOODS, 

And other processes for Confectionery, &c. In which are ex- 
plained, in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods 
of Manufacturing every description of Raw and Refined sugar 
Goods, as sold by Confectioners and others . . $2 00 

LL.— TABLES FOR QUALITATIVE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. 
By Prof. Heinrich Will, of Giessen, Germany. Seventh edi- 
tion. Translated by Charles F. Himes, Ph. D., Professor of 
Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, Pa. . $1 25 

WILLIAMS.— ON HEAT AND STEAM : 

Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation, and 
Expansion. By Charles Wye Williams, A. I. C. E. Illus- 
trated. 8vo. $3 50 

WOHLER.— A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON ANALYTICAL CHEM- 
'''' ISTRY. 

By F. WoHLER. With additions by Grandeau and Troost. 
Edited by H. B. Nason, Professor of Chemistry, Rensselaer 
Institute, Troy, N. Y. With numerous Illustrations. {In press. ) 



WORSSAM.— ON MECHANICAL SAWS : 

From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1867. By 
S. W. WoRSSAM, Jr. Illustrated by 18 large folding plates. 8vo. 

$5 00 



W- 



24 HENRY CAREY BAIRD'S CATALOGUE, 

■DOX.— A PRA.CTICAL TREATISE ON HEAT AS APPLIED TO 

^ TIIL USEFUL ARTS: 

For the use of Engineers, Architects, etc. By Thomas Bo:n; 
author of "Practical Hydraulics." Illustrated by 14 plates, con- 
taining 114 figures. 12mo. . . . . . . $4 25 

•pYRNE.— THE AMERICAN ENGINEER, DRAUGHTSMAN, AND 

■^ MACHINIST'S ASSISTANT: 

Designed for Practical Workingmen, Apprentices, and those in- 
tended for the Engineering Profession. Illustrated witil 200 
Engravings on wood, and 14 large Plates of American Machinery 
and Engine-work. By Oliver Byrne. 4to. Cloth . $6 00 

nHAPMAN.— A TREATISE ON ROPE-MAKING, 

As praotised in private and public Rope-yards, with a Description 
of the Manufacture, Rules, Tables of Weights, etc. adapted to the 
Trade; Shipping, Mining, Railways, Builders, etc By Robert 
Chapman. 24mo $1 50 



OLOAN— AMERICAN HOUSES : 

A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by 
26 colored Engravings, with Descriptive References By Samuel 
Sloan, Architect; author of the "Model Architect, "etc. etc. 8vo 

$2 60 



OMITH,— THE PRACTICAL DYER'S GUIDE: 

Comprising Practical Instructions in the Dyeing of Shot Cobourgs, 
Silk Striped Orleans, Colored Orleans from Black Warps, ditto 
from White Warps, Colored Cobourgs from White Warps, Merinos, 
Yarns, Woollen Cloths, etc. Containing nearly 300 Receipts, to 
most of which a Dyed Pattern is annexed Also, a Treatise on 
the Art of Padding. By David Smith. In one vol. 8vo. $25 00 




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